Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Dennis, Charlie Ware, May 17, 1971
Page Views: 3,342 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jun 9, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

This line is described in Hill's (1983:109-111) "Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias" (I'm working with the 2nd edition; I haven't seen if this description has changed in the 3rd edition). Schein's (2003:75) "Sandia Rock" describes a slightly different second pitch. I followed Schein's line, so I can't comment on Hill's full route.

Approach pitch: Consider pitching out the 4th class approach pitch to the top of the pillar. There is decent gear.

Pitch 1: From the top of the pillar that marks the base of the climb, pull through some face moves that immediately get your attention, to gain a crack. About 2/3 of the way up the pitch, climb through some fun plate-sized chicken heads on the left and gain the prominent ledge that crosses the face (which constitutes part of Pitch 1 of the West Face Traverse); move right about 10-15 feet to the base of a short chimney and belay on gear from there.

Pitch 2: Climb the short chimney and follow a nice crack to a point where the crack starts to turn into a left-facing dihedral. Hill's description of the route continues up this dihedral. Schein recommends traversing up to the right across a face to the bottom of another chimney with two obvious roofs. Pull through the fun upper roof and climb to the top of the formation. Belay off trees/blocks or gear.

Location Suggest change

This route generally ascends the right-center of the west face of the Tombstone. From the southwest corner of the Tombstone (at the flat-topped luncheon pillar), traverse north ca. 50 feet and then ascend through blocky 4th class terrain to the top of a semi-detached pillar (2nd pillar in from the south). The approach pitch has ample gear protection. 

Updated belay bolts (September 2023) at the top of the pillar mark the beginning of the official route. The old rusted 1/4" belay bolts were left in place for historical purposes.

At the top, walk off to the east and then south.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack of cams & nuts should do, with plenty of runners too.

There are two new anchor bolts (installed September 2023) on the top of the pillar for the start of pitch 1. Gear anchor for the start of p2 and plenty of trees and blocks to sling at the top of the formation.

Photos

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