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Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
> Big Thompson Ca…
> Mary's Bust Area
> Mary's Bust - main bu…
Wingardium Leviosa
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crusty, Old Curmudgeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deceiver S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Mary S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Expeliarmus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Shadow S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Open Road, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,914 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Aug 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This varied route is one of the better pitches at The Bust. A light rack is required for the runouts between the bolted sections.
Start up towards the obvious, thin crack system behind the large pin tree. Stem, palm, and thin crack moves (crux) lead to a jam crack. A finger size cam and a #2 protect this section. Head left on slab climbing to another 5.10 crux at a bulge. A #1 can protect the runout between bolts. There is a 20 foot runout to the anchors that can be protected by a difficult to see TCU placement.
You can just barely lower off with a 60m, so be careful. A 70m might be a good idea.
Start up towards the obvious, thin crack system behind the large pin tree. Stem, palm, and thin crack moves (crux) lead to a jam crack. A finger size cam and a #2 protect this section. Head left on slab climbing to another 5.10 crux at a bulge. A #1 can protect the runout between bolts. There is a 20 foot runout to the anchors that can be protected by a difficult to see TCU placement.
You can just barely lower off with a 60m, so be careful. A 70m might be a good idea.
Photos
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