Don't Sweat the Small Stuff
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 10 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Trevor Bowman and Ty Gittins 7/11/10 |
Page Views: | 1,233 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Aug 3, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
This was initially done as a very poorly protected headpoint with only a little cleaning done. I did it in this style as there was a bit of bolting controversy circling the Gally around that time, I wanted to do it in similar style to the neighboring Boveng's Overhang, and I didn't think it merited bolting. However, as such it sat completely ignored for the last 10 years.
In June 2019, it was retro-bolted by a party unaware that it had been climbed as there was little evidence left behind and the sparse/marginal gear options understandably didn't look like reasonable pro. I was contacted by the bolter after they realized their mistake, and am fine with the bolting and cleaning that it apparently received. It seems to me to be a better use of the resource given the growing popularity of the canyon, and the fact that a deadly moderate doesn't really appeal to most folks. It can now serve as a convenient warm-up for lines on B.O. Buttress and the south face of the Waltz.
In June 2019, it was retro-bolted by a party unaware that it had been climbed as there was little evidence left behind and the sparse/marginal gear options understandably didn't look like reasonable pro. I was contacted by the bolter after they realized their mistake, and am fine with the bolting and cleaning that it apparently received. It seems to me to be a better use of the resource given the growing popularity of the canyon, and the fact that a deadly moderate doesn't really appeal to most folks. It can now serve as a convenient warm-up for lines on B.O. Buttress and the south face of the Waltz.
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