Mountain Project Logo

Top roping overhanging routes

Original Post
Russ B · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 42

I've started working on climbing a few routes in a very overhanging cave, with a serious decking potential if you fail while trying to clip most bolts on the routes. I was able to second after someone, but I would like to go out there with my normal partner, and neither of us would be okay leading there. I can safely get to the first bolt on most routes, and the top of the cave is accessible.

Does anyone have any experience doing this? I'm thinking of doing a tyrolean traverse off of an a tree above the cave to the first bolt, rapping down to the first bolt, place the draw and rope in, and move down and across to the next until at the base. I can see not being able to get enough tension from the lower line to keep high enough to reach the top, but I think the bolts are close enough to where if the rap line was clipped into each, it could be done.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Huh?

Just stick-clip aid (you hang in-direct at each bolt while you rig for the next) your way up the first time, then climb through the clips. Back-clip when being lowered.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

This sounds like a bad idea. If the cave is as steep as you say it is, and the decking potential of blown clips is as real as you say it is, then it is nearly as likely you will get hurt toproping as you would leading.

What you really need to do is build enough strength and endurance in the gym and on other routes so that you can eventually get to a point that you feel reasonably solid making the clips on this route.

Russ B · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 42
youtube.com/watch?v=0JjrgGj…

He's doing it on one of the routes at the same place.
Russ B · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 42

The route is Called Thieving Texas Bastard (5.13-), at Cub Cave in San Antonio. It's in a city park now and we're trying to figure out how to go about fixing the pro, but this is the only climbing location in a park in the city, so they have no experience dealing with climbers... and with the neighborhood that it's located in, I unfortunately don't think they'll like perma-draws in their park. =(

Ted Kryzer · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

Up here in minnesota we have a a place called willow river its super over hanging. Its in a state park and the only way to even put the rope up is to lead it. No perma draws cause the park doesn't allow it. The only way is to either do it ground up or get some one to put it up for you so you can top rope it.

Probably not much help but w/e.
mountainproject.com/v/willo…

JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
JPVallone wrote:
That was a pretty "extreme" fall.........
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
Post a Reply to "Top roping overhanging routes"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started