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Looking Glass Rock

Original Post
tweeek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 10

Hello all,

Can someone clear my confusion. Does Looking Glass Rock have more than one route up? 140 Moab climbs list "East Rib" as a 3 pitch 5.4.. MP has "Regular Route" listed as a 5.5, but other sites have listed it as a 5.7. The comments on the MP's "East Rib" addition says that the route is already listed. Is "East Rib" and "Regular Route" the same climb?

I am wanting something to take my GF on her first multipitch, but I am not comfortable with her on ANYTHING more than 5.5-5.6 the most.

summitpost.org says that if you fall to the right on lead, you will need to ascend the free hanging rope. While this is not an issue for me, it would be for my second. Can anyone confirm this exposure?

Any other suggestions in that easy range would be appreciated..

CHeers!

Alexander Nees · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 720

There's only one "East Rib" route, as far as I can tell. I would call it 5.5 tops. I suppose that it is possible to fall off the side and be hanging in space if you blew it on the lead. But you'd have to try pretty hard to fall off of it. For the follower, I would think that a tight toprope belay would provide more than enough tension to keep them on the ridge. It's really very low-angle. Go for it! Fun route, stellar rappel.

Other good stuff in the <5.6 grade range is hard to find. South Six Shooter is a moderate summit route, but there's a lot of do-not-fall traversing on the route, and the summit block is a pretty stout 5.6! If 5.6 is your comfort level with her, I would suggest maybe some scrambling routes in canyons. Although actually, you could try Bullwinkle Tower in Arches (it's posted here on MP). Super short route, but a fun summit and easy climbing. If that goes well you could try the usual suspect, Owl Rock which is right next door. It's 5.8 but VERY user-friendly juggy climbing.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

I think that 5.5 is definitely pushing it. There are two moves that might be 5.5 but the third pitch is definitely fourth class and the rest of it can't be more than 5.1. I soloed it in Chacos and trailing a rope to use as a safety line for the rest of my group. The rap off of the top is pretty amazing!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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