Rack Recommendations for "Story of O" at Acadia

Hi there, I am planning to do "Story of O" during my trip to Acadia next week but am not sure if I have enough gear to lead it and set up the gear anchors. Right now I have a small rack: 0,2,3 TCUs, .5-3 C4s, wires /w doubles in the small range. Anyone know if I am missing something? Would this be enough? Thanks!

You can get some gear Beta for all three routes from here - mountainproject.com/v/the-p…

I have done the entire Chitlin Corner to the top of the corner in one go. Super fun. We used double 50m or double 55m back then. I have no idea whether you can do a single rap from the very top of the corner with a single 60m or not. But, from recent photos, it looks like there is a fixed anchor about midway up that also serves as the belay for the second-pitch 5.10 variation.

I did remember dumping most of my rack into the crack for pro! :)

JSH, do you know if it is possible to rap the first pitch of Chitlin Corner with a single 60m? I don't really feel comfortable leading the second pitch.

Keyan P wrote:JSH, do you know if it is possible to rap the first pitch of Chitlin Corner with a single 60m? I don't really feel comfortable leading the second pitch.

You can but it takes 2 raps:
1. From the Chitlin P1 anchors rap down - slightly climber's left - to the bolted anchor on top of Rusticators.
2. To the ground.

It figures that Eric knows this area so well! Thanks.

To be clear, Eric, when you said P1 of Chitlin, you meant a LONG pitch to the top of the long corner, right? I think the entire corner consists of more than 100 feet of climbing. Is this accurate?

Yep...2 raps from the anchors below the corner.
then there are two routes that can be TR'd off the last anchor

Hey no need to build gear anchors. There are trees that can be used for anchors on all pitches. They're not ideal but when you don't have gear left, they are awesome.

Also, I'm pretty sure the entire route could be done in one long pitch. We went from the first tree 5-10 ft below the regular gear anchor of pitch 1 all the way to the top and didn't have a problem. With a 70 it's a sure shot.

Enjoy it's a nice route!

S. Neoh wrote:It figures that Eric knows this area so well! Thanks. To be clear, Eric, when you said P1 of Chitlin, you meant a LONG pitch to the top of the long corner, right? I think the entire corner consists of more than 100 feet of climbing. Is this accurate?

Yup - that's right. It's probably > 100' up the initial corner to the point where Green Mountain Breakdown takes off up the wall to the right and another 30-40 feet beyond that to where the traditional first pitch ends at the anchors. From there P2 of Chitlin's continues up the same (but now harder) corner for another 25' to the roof and the traverse right.

Thanks everyone, I'm definitely going to try my hand at those climbs then!