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> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower Two
Whiskey and Weed Power
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 44
votes
Routes in Tower Two
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Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desp-Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Falcon Corner Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Insane in the Brain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | 8/27/04 Greg M, Clark O |
| Page Views: | 1,197 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Sep 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description (2 cruxes up high)
WWP is another good Martinez route on the right side of Tower 2. The theme is pretty consistent with the other lines up there: long, pumpy, good holds to a devious crux bulge then endure the pump to the chains.
The crux of this one awaits at the 5th bolt with strange undercling moves to smallish crimps and - gasp! - no feet! A couple of bolts of this nonsense brings you to the sweetest pockets at HelmetGate. Catch a rest there and fire the steep second half looking for more hidden pockets to your left.
Long draws are useful on the bolts in the middle.
One can supposedly reach extreme levels of pump by mantling above the anchors on a dirty shelf, bumping the grade to an unprecedented 5.11. Don't do it, there's one of those cool mini-saplings living there and it doesn't need the disturbance. If you do take pics of the belly-flopping downclimb or gnar-jump that will necessarily follow.
The crux of this one awaits at the 5th bolt with strange undercling moves to smallish crimps and - gasp! - no feet! A couple of bolts of this nonsense brings you to the sweetest pockets at HelmetGate. Catch a rest there and fire the steep second half looking for more hidden pockets to your left.
Long draws are useful on the bolts in the middle.
One can supposedly reach extreme levels of pump by mantling above the anchors on a dirty shelf, bumping the grade to an unprecedented 5.11. Don't do it, there's one of those cool mini-saplings living there and it doesn't need the disturbance. If you do take pics of the belly-flopping downclimb or gnar-jump that will necessarily follow.
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