Mountain Project Logo

looking for ideas on first solos

Original Post
Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

so I've been kicking the idea around of soloing. first I've been having trouble with my regular partners having the same days off as myself. thinking about free soloing some of the easier routes in the flatirons. would love some input as to what routes I should go do.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

I did the the third flat iron the other day. It was actually my first solo too. The only heady part was the top but it was a great experience.

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

For an intro try the 2nd flatiron -- no rappel or downclimb, you just come off the side. If you're comfortable on that try the 3rd but bring a rope to rap unless you're very confident about both finding and completing the downclimb.

Really though, my best suggestion would be to start on routes you know well and are very comfortable on. Until you know how you'll react to the mental aspect I think that might be best...

Oh, and... YER GONNA DIE!!

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,101

Make sure it is well below your limit. When I was a kid 17, I would solo the easy stuff on the whales tail. I did mostly 5.6s that I had done before.

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,153

Since you are asking this on a public internet forum from people you likely do not know, you probably shouldn't be soloing.

Soloing requires a very honest assessment of one's abilities. If you're asking others what you should solo, then your assessment might be off.

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105
Jonathan Clark wrote:Since you are asking this on a public internet forum from people you likely do not know, you probably shouldn't be soloing. Soloing requires a very honest assessment of one's abilities. If you're asking others what you should solo, then your assessment might be off.
I have to agree with this-third classing requires you to be the master of your sport. Granted, at the level of difficulty you're contemplating, it tends to be pretty casual; but it is the proverbial slippery slope. Pretty soon it can be easy to talk yourself into something your mom and dad regret.
Alex Whitman · · Chattanooga · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 440

If you have to ask you probably aren't ready. Soloing is a personal thing that you do because the route is right for you at the moment, not because you read about it on the internet. Not to mention 1000 feet of exposure on your first solo might not be the best idea.

That being said go play on the Second Flatiron. If you fall there you probably won't even tumble to the bottom; that and there are lots of breaks and places to chill if you find yourself a little spooked.

Go gently.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

hi kevin!
i would vote for rope soloing instead, if you have that much time with out a partner. safer, and you can climb/train a lot harder. for example, in those situations when i wasn't pokin' bolts in somewhere, i used to do rope solo laps on the cracks at wall90s.

Tommey-James · · Boulder,Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

The E. Slab on the Dome is a good FS route
Most any route on the Wind Ridge is pretty good too
Could also do the origional route on the thrid elephant butress, there is only one tuff move with good climbing below and above

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Here's what I did few years ago: hike up around the side of the first flatiron, and up climb the down climb so you know where it goes. After that, it's simple to literally do circular laps on all the easier routes. I used to start on the standard route, then stop on the way down and head back up zig-zag or whatever. Very easy and time efficient way to get lot of vertical in, and the routes are easy enough. I personally quit doing this because I would rather sit on my ass watching TV than die for a thrill at this point in my life, but to each their own.

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364
Alex Whitman wrote:If you have to ask you probably aren't ready. Soloing is a personal thing that you do because the route is right for you at the moment
I disagree with this judgement. He isn't asking whether he should or shouldn't solo, just asking for ideas for good routes to contemplate. Judging by his tick list, he is more than capable of soloing many of the routes in the Flatirons.

Too many people on this forum seem to jump on the "if you have to ask..." What is wrong with asking?

I agree the Second Flatiron is a good easy first solo without much exposure and a simple walk off.

I personally think Angel's Way is an excellent solo. It tends to be pretty empty (I personally do not like soloing with people around). It is a long route but without much commitment. If follows a ridge for a long way, but since both the ridge and the ground are sloping upward, you are never that high off the ground and can retreat down at numerous points (also, it makes climbing with a rope pointless, since you would often swing to the ground). I also found this route to be more straightforward than its neighbor, Stairway to Heaven (also, not a bad solo). The Bushwhack descent kind of sucks would be the only downside.
Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062
Freeway I agree this is a great solo. But I think I read a comment about a wasp nest near the top, so watch out for that...

This is a fun link-up... The Regency to the Royal Arch. Not classic, but fun. Then climb Buckets. The day I did those I wanted more so I did East Ridge. Super fun! You can choose to finish this on Yodeling Moves but you don't have to. It is super easy but down-climbing it might be scary, since it's pretty exposed.

Angel's Way This one is pretty classic and has a walk off.

Except for Freeway, you probably won't see anyone on any of those routes.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Try doing Left and Up on The Slab in the Flatirons. No one there will distract you and you can easily downclimb without a rope.

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

+1 for Angel's Way, too.

andrewc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0
Julius Beres wrote: I disagree with this judgement. He isn't asking whether he should or shouldn't solo, just asking for ideas for good routes to contemplate.
I can't imagine that one's first solos should be routes unknown to you. By the time that you are even thinking of soloing you will have routes that you've climbed multiple times that would make good candidates to solo. Routes with secure cruxes. Jugs, handjams etc.

This is one case where if you really have to ask...
Tom Mulholland · · #1 Cheese Producing State! · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 50
andrewc wrote: I can't imagine that one's first solos should be routes unknown to you.
Agree. Plus, IMO you shouldn't solo because it's a logical choice: lack of partner, progression of climbing skills, etc. You solo because you're trying to discover something about yourself, trying to focus your mind, or trying to have a little fun (on something that's trivially easy). I think that soloing is an expression of self-confidence, and it would be hard to be confident on 1000 feet of unknown territory.

But obviously nobody is an authority on the matter. Be safe, have fun, and good luck!
YDPL8S · · Santa Monica, Ca. · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 540

I personally only solo'd routes that I had totally wired, could have done them in the dark. Having them wired allowed me to get my head together better, if I knew what was in store for me on the move that was making me sweat. But then, I never did much soloing and usually stuck to jam cracks where I could make it "hurt so good" to feel a bit safer.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Lost Porch, you will get the opportunity to bail at the halfway point. It's rated 5.0 here, if climbing a ladder is 4th class I say its 4th but of course that would depend on your route. The way I went had positive foot and hand holds on every move, but managed to get almost dead vertical on a few headwalls.

+whatever to Angels Way and I'll add Stairway to heaven nearby.

-whatever to trying to guess your personal fortitude on an internet forum.

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364
andrewc wrote: I can't imagine that one's first solos should be routes unknown to you. By the time that you are even thinking of soloing you will have routes that you've climbed multiple times that would make good candidates to solo. Routes with secure cruxes. Jugs, handjams etc. This is one case where if you really have to ask...
Most of the routes I have soloed in the Flatirons have been new to me. I don't solo anything hard, and I don't see much point in "wiring" a 5.0 runout slab where falling on lead would be awful anyway.

Again, I see nothing wrong with asking. If he wants, he could go lead it first...

Personally, I would rather onsight solo a 5.2 rather than solo a 5.8 I have "wired."
samsonight Sam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 25
kevin fox wrote: I've been having trouble with my regular partners having the same days off as myself.
This is a terrible reason to free solo. Especially in the beginning.

At its core free soloing is about pushing mental boundaries/breaking mental blocks - It should be done, particularly on your first go, on a climb you are intimately familiar with. Terrain you know you can physically climb where the only possible holdup is your mind.

To the one gent that mentioned Kevin's tic list - The hardest part of free soloing is not the physical but rather the mental. Many a great climber has melted down on a solo....
Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

I solo cracks and slabs, generally well below my OS grade. I listen to my gut and solo what I'm inspired to solo. I dont solo routes i cant downclimb. I'm not a hardman soloist by any measure. Things to consider are how secure the route is, what the way off is like, any chance for loose rock or broken holds, etc.

The flatirons are a great place to start IMO. Its my favorite place to run around and climb a lot of easy routes.

Oh and I've been bouldering a lot more lately (and TR soloing) instead of free soloing. It seems somewhat safer and better for my hard climbing but I still find free soloing fun on occasion.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "looking for ideas on first solos"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.