Simplify belays with an unequal-length equalette.

Caleb Padgett wrote:Is it possible to have a truly equalized 3 point anchor with an equalette?

The master point only is equalized. The 2 strands on each side of the master point cannot be fully equalized and cannot equalize a change of direction on the load.

The title of this thread is hilarious by the way.... starting to wonder if this is a troll.

Yes the two piece are equalized to each other. But these two equalized pieces are receiving 50% of the load from the powerpoint and the last piece which is clipped into 2 the remaining two strands is getting 50% of the load.

Regardless of how you tie into these pieces to equalize (bunny eared 8 or clove hitches) it doesn't affect the load it is receiving from the powerpoint. The equalette puts 50% of the load on the two strands leaving each side of the powerpoint. Introducing a third piece of protection onto one side of the equalette simply spreads the force between the two pieces on that side not spreading it out equally between all three.

50/25/25 is still better than a tied off cordelette that can go from 33/33/33 to 90/10/0 very easily, right?

Matt N wrote:50/25/25 is still better than a tied off cordelette that can go from 33/33/33 to 90/10/0 very easily, right?

I think that depends.

I find that on most climbs I do there is not much change in the direction of pull on the anchor. One exception is when the pitch ends with a traverse. In this instance a self equalizing anchor may be the best choice. If there is little chance of the direction of pull changing I don't see any reason to rig with an equalette.

There are pros and cons to any rigging setup and I think you need to be versatile and able to apply which technique is best for the particular scenario you find yourself in.

When you are using 2 or 4 pieces the equalette is bomber. I think people generally have a misunderstanding of how it works with 3 pieces though. For whatever reason I find myself mostly using 3 point anchors on multipitch routes and have never felt great about using an equalette for this setup.

The only time I use the equalette is when I NEED that extra bit of equalization. When I need that extra bit of equalization, I'm going to be using more than three pieces.

Rick Blair wrote:The title of this thread is hilarious by the way.... starting to wonder if this is a troll.

No hilarity intended. I just found a way to save a couple seconds by tying an equalette differently than I'd tied it before and thought I'd share.

Saving time...unequal-length tails on the equalette...seemed like a good way to describe it.

The thread has turned into the same tired old argument about what the best anchor is, so I guess it doesn't matter anyway. Meh...

...I'm takin' my equalette and goin' home!

{wipes tear from corner of eye}

Chris D wrote: No hilarity intended. I just found a way to save a couple seconds by tying an equalette differently than I'd tied it before and thought I'd share. Saving time...unequal-length tails on the equalette...seemed like a good way to describe it. The thread has turned into the same tired old argument about what the best anchor is, so I guess it doesn't matter anyway. Meh... ...I'm takin' my equalette and goin' home! {wipes tear from corner of eye}

Sorry Chris. I'd like to help. I don't think you understand how to rig an equalette... and a few other here don't either. There is no tail to shorten. There is not knot to untie... just a few cloves. So much more...

Greg D wrote: Sorry Chris. I'd like to help. I don't think you understand how to rig an equalette... and a few other here don't either. There is no tail to shorten. There is not knot to untie... just a few cloves. So much more...

Greg,

I don't know why you're so insistent on being "right," when neither of us are wrong. Unless you've written a better book about using the equalette than Long and Gaines. Or maybe the newest edition has been revised to include only cloves in the equalette anchor setup.

From p. 169 of Long and Gaines, ed. 2:

"For three placements, one arm will accommodate two placements, (usually with clove hitches tied into the individual strands of the arm) and the other arm will connect to one placement (via the loop on the cord, a clove hitch, or overhand on a bight)." (emphasis mine)

So you can use a clove, or (as I prefer) shorten the arm (sorry, maybe my calling it a "tail" confused you) with an overhand.

In the photo of a three-piece anchor with an equalette, Long has clearly chosen the overhand knot to shorten the arm attached to one piece. Here's the photo:



So neither of us are wrong, but I try to make sure I know what I'm talking about, especially if it's to tell someone else that they don't. It would behoove you to do the same.

An anchor like an ACR is fully dynamically equalizing, a cordalette is pre-equalized and an equalette is dynamically equalized at the master point but pre-equalized at the anchors on each side of the master point. If you want to dynamically equalize 3 or 4 pieces the equallete is not the best choice.

I keep mine pre-tied, I place my pro, clip my strands into the pro and then clove all my strands to the correct length. I feel this is fast and gives me a lot of flexibility, that is why I use it.

As far as re-purposing the cord I can untie it, but most of the time such as slinging a tree I find I can just leave the knots in.

As much as threads like this seem to be flogging a dead horse I usually get something out of them, I might try the sliding figure 8 on one side of the master point one of these days.

Sorry Chris. I was refering to this which was not you.

Caleb wrote: Correct me if my logic is flawed but it seems to me that there are two load strands leaving the power point of an equalette, each supporting 50% of the load. If you introduce a third piece into the anchor you clove two pieces to one shared leg and the last piece is on its own leg. 50% of the force goes to the two pieces at 25% each and the last piece holds 50% of the load.