The Gipsy (new pro)

gripped.com/2011/08/section…

That's pretty freakin' cool. Looks way easier to place than a big bro..

It sounded like that guy didn't think they would work...

Phil Lauffen wrote:It sounded like that guy didn't think they would work...

That's just how Italians scream...

What was that thing he had all his gipsies racked on? Looked awkward and unnecessary.

I think he had an extra plastic thing on his harness to rack them, otherwise they'd flop all around and whack you in the balls and such.

I don't think those are really "new" though. I recall seeing them quite a while back. Obviously they haven't caught on...

that plastic thing is called the kong owl, its supposedly an easy way to rack pitons or something like that

froggy wrote:that plastic thing is called the kong owl, its supposedly an easy way to rack pitons or something like that

Ah, makes sense that I've never seen or needed one then. Cheers.

Seen that idea before... rob.calm has an old one I believe?

The #6 Gipsy only covers up to a Green Big Bro, at almost twice the weight!
#6 Gipsy 485g
#3 (green) Big Bro 264g

http://www.kong.it/doc/KONG_GIPSY.pdf

Mark Roth wrote:Seen that idea before... rob.calm has an old one I believe?

this one?


are they easier to place than that?

He doesn't seem to have a photo of it, but he does have one... I've seen it! People came up with all kinds of whacky stuff in the 70s and 80s.

cant you just place a bolt when it gets that wide?

Darren Mabe wrote:cant you just place a bolt when it gets that wide?

That crack looks like it takes perfect bolt placements.

Crack didn't look any wider than 5 and 6 Camalots, but what do I know.

Mark Roth wrote:The #6 Gipsy only covers up to a Green Big Bro, at almost twice the weight! #6 Gipsy 485g #3 (green) Big Bro 264g kong.it/doc/KONG_GIPSY.pdf

True. Another way to look at it is that the #6 Gipsy weighs less than a #6 C4 and covers a wider range. The fact that the Gipsies are numbered 4, 5, and 6 suggests that Kong has BD in mind rather than Trango. The Gipsy is probably harder to push than a cam, and probably easier to place than a Big Bro. It's unlikely to supersede either, but could be the ideal pro for some placements. Hard to say more for me without having any direct experience.

Tom R wrote: That crack looks like it takes perfect bolt placements.

There is so much wrong with What u just said. There is no reason to bolt a crack. It is a crack and it takes protection that is not destructive. Bolts r for face climbing or when there is unnecessary risk without one. Lets keep climbing good and hard, lets face it. Some routes shouldn't just be casted off by Joe sport climber. That is a GOOD thing. Knowledge is power
"I remember when sex was safe and climbing dangerous" Jim Bridwell
P.s. if u don't know who that is. Learn

WanderLust wrote: There is so much wrong with What u just said. There is no reason to bolt a crack. It is a crack and it takes protection that is not destructive. Bolts r for face climbing or when there is unnecessary risk without one. Lets keep climbing good and hard, lets face it. Some routes shouldn't just be casted off by Joe sport climber. That is a GOOD thing. Knowledge is power "I remember when sex was safe and climbing dangerous" Jim Bridwell P.s. if u don't know who that is. Learn

dude quickdraws are lighter than big cams!!

isn't Jim that guy that did a couple of FA's in Yosemite?

Peter Adamson wrote: Are you honestly saying that we shouldn't bolt that crack? It's clearly too wide to be safely protected, the notion that it doesn't deserve bolts is simply ridiculous. I probably misunderstood you though, I don't think anybody can make a case for leaving these wide cracks so unsafe.

Awesome.

Darren Mabe wrote: dude quickdraws are lighter than big cams!! isn't Jim that guy that did a couple of FA's in Yosemite?

Sweet.

WanderLust wrote: There is so much wrong with What u just said. There is no reason to bolt a crack. It is a crack and it takes protection that is not destructive. Bolts r for face climbing or when there is unnecessary risk without one. Lets keep climbing good and hard, lets face it. Some routes shouldn't just be casted off by Joe sport climber. That is a GOOD thing. Knowledge is power "I remember when sex was safe and climbing dangerous" Jim Bridwell P.s. if u don't know who that is. Learn

"Sarcasm: a sharp and often satirical or ironic utterance designed to cut or give pain." -Merriam-Webster
If you don't know who that is, learn.

Edit to add: Sorry. That violated Guideline #1.

There is no way that that device is conceptually stable...