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New and Improved Tie-in Knot: The Sooooper 8™®

Original Post
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

If you've ever gotten the sinking feeling in the middle of a pitch that maybe your knot might not be secure, this is the knot for you: The Sooooper 8™®
Four passes through both tie-in points with a triple retraced figure-8 knot with 3 extra passes followed by a 12-wrap safety knot and finished by a three-wrap monkey puzzle stopper knot. For extra added safety, I have included a three wrap prusik attached to the belay loop with opposite and opposed lockers ('cause you never know...)


-loads of safety!
-takes a mere 23 minutes to tie/untie!
-replete with awesome redundantness!

Please offer improvements if you can add any.
:0)

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062

just need to back up those tie in loops

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

Yer gonna die. What if your harness breaks? You really should be using two harness, with seperate and isolated ropes.

Your knot looks decent though.

Robbie Flick · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 17

Very elegant - what happens when your quick release harness fails though?

andrewc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

The fact that you think its acceptable to not be using a quarter rope system is very sad. I imagine that you left the other 3 ropes out to make your knot clearer but someone with less than 25 years experience is going to see this and the blood will be on your soul.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769
andrewc wrote:The fact that you think its acceptable to not be using a quarter rope system is very sad. I imagine that you left the other 3 ropes out to make your knot clearer but someone with less than 25 years experience is going to see this and the blood will be on your soul.
Maybe I should add a disclaimer or perhaps a EULA-type legal waiver when you click to view the larger image.

If the knot gets ½Nelson's approval, I'm using it anyhow.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Being skeptical, I'm still doubtful about overall safety.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Now I know why 70 and 80 meter ropes came to the market!

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Your stopper knot isn't snugged all the way up to the triple retraced figure-8.

YER GUNNA DIIIIIIIEEEEEEE!!!

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

OMG....MY EYES... MY FRIGGIN EYES

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

the monkey puzzle protects you from primates, too.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

and the ability to breed with other human primates, also

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

After considering the legal ramifications of someone using this knot, maybe I should replace the original photo with this one. That should clear up any confusion/improper use.

B RAD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

I dunno.. I'm still a bit skeptical. Maybe you could show us a pull test at FF3?

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

are those speed buckles?!

Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Good...but it wouldn't hurt to leave a little more tail at the end. Knot creep...and stuff. As previously mentioned I'd probably back up that rappel loop too and instead of the prussik I'd probably just attach a mini trax or two above the knot. SAFER that way.

Can't ever have too many tools in the tool box. Great climbing content!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Now it looks like you blurred a picture of your weiner.

Just sayin'!

DBarton · · CENTENNIAL, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 105
Woodchuck ATC wrote:Being skeptical, I'm still doubtful about overall safety.
I agree, what if you hit yourself in the face with than monkey puzzle knot! I think that you need a fully integrated face shield and likely a neck protector to protect you from your safety knot.

Also, what about a full body harness and added parachute... just in case.
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

I lied about the monkey puzzle stopper knot: It's actually a very compressed full body airbag. I'd explain how it works, but I signed a non-disclosure form....

Chris Graham · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 545

I've been using that knot for years, but added one more keeper sling prusiked slightly above your purple backup knot that automatically deploys my parachute when it goes taut. I only use this knot for multi-pitch clearly.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

One more extra wrap on your prussic and isolate the strands by cloving them to the individual biners and I'd say you are just about done.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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