Germany climbing - Berlin/Elb - August 14-16th. Partners?

Hello all!

My girl and I will be in Germany to do some climbing next month.

We are planning to climb at the Bunker in Berlin on the 14th, if we can get in contact with the DAV - they don't seem to answer their emails.

Heading to Bad Schandau to climb on the 15th, and climbing in Bieletal the 16th and part of the 17th.

We'd be happy to rope up with some folks who know the area. Planning on climbing IV and below, though.

Have most of the standard knot rack to monkey's fists, no large lines though.

Berg Heil!

We have a friend who lives at the Adrpach/Teplice sandstone areas in CZ Rep. who has told me he knows other climbers around where you are going. I can give you his contact if you want. You'd have to promise to be good to him, he's a great guy and an absolute sandstone master!

There's also another sandtone area on the Czech side of the Elbe called Zleb.We were there but it was raining...

Thanks Scott! Any contacts over there would be appreciated.

We have a rough idea of what we are doing, but still looking for topos and such. Local input would be a great help.

I don't think we will have time to visit the Czech side this year, but it's a possibility.

Thanks again!

... Have most of the standard knot rack to monkey's fists,

That is SO trad, do people still use that on the soft rock as opposed to modern gear?

Have a great trip!

Steve

Hey Steve,

Yeah, in the Elb on both sides of the border, metal pro isn't allowed. The sandstone is suuuper soft.

You have to use knots. No chalk allowed either. So your "rack" consists of line from 5-11mm tied into overhand and figure 8 knots, and monkey's fists. Then you have a "spatel" (wooden stick) that you use to poke the knot into the crack.

Some people that I have spoken too use knots made of hawser line, for tying up boats and such. HUGE knots!

It has been fun building the "rack" but I am a bit nervous about it. Still, they have been climbing over there for a very long time that way.

Hoping the weather holds out!

Oh man I missed you guys! I was in Berlin on the 18th! But I'm going again today.

They also have the "A Leader should not fall" mentality. There are some really great pics here: teufelsturm.de/fotos/galerie/

Pay attention to the run-out that many of the leaders are on :)