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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Black Wall Traverse V2 5+ |
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Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Brown & Baird, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 2,801 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Jun 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Across the road from the main Sespe Wall lies a steep 50 foot high face marked with two huecos on the bottom half.
Strenuous and dynamic climbing is the name of the game. The route starts with a run-and-jump to the first hueco, followed by a huge throw to the second hueco. Two more big moves up and then left lead to easier climbing and a vintage bolted anchor (1985 originals?).
The lead bolts are in decent shape, although the 4th bolt is missing a hanger. Use a wired stopper, rivet hanger, or bring along a hanger and crescent wrench :).
Strenuous and dynamic climbing is the name of the game. The route starts with a run-and-jump to the first hueco, followed by a huge throw to the second hueco. Two more big moves up and then left lead to easier climbing and a vintage bolted anchor (1985 originals?).
The lead bolts are in decent shape, although the 4th bolt is missing a hanger. Use a wired stopper, rivet hanger, or bring along a hanger and crescent wrench :).
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