Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Vision Quest
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 146
votes
Routes in King of Pain
|
|
Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Kokanee Corner, The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Webster and Jeff Achey 9/84 |
| Page Views: | 17,872 total · 67/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 19, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This long and sustained route is one of the longest, and perhaps finer hand-to-fist climbs in Indian Creek. The summit is awesome! The King Of Pain is a tower with a set of twin summits and is the tallest of all of the Bridger Jack towers, other than the Butte itself. It is easily twice the size of the Sparkling Touch, Thumbelina, or Sunflower towers, and almost 3 times the size of Easter Island.
Vision Quest climbs a majority of its length up or near the dihedral system that splits the two towers on the East side. Details are as follows:
P1: Around to the right of the base, on the north tower's east face side, you will see a .75-1.5" fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb this to its top, then move over to the left to the base of a big slot, and belay at the fixed station. (10c)
P2: From the previously mentioned belay, climb a pumpy hand-to-fist crack up for about 100' to another fixed anchor to belay. The overhanging section may be the physical crux of the route. (10d)
P3: From the fixed belay, start up again in another crack that is wide-hands to fists through a bulge for the technical crux of the route. (10d)
P4: Climb up through some big blocks to an area between where the two summits split, and up onto the face on the right (north summit). This pitch is the psychological crux of the route, and while it is 10a max, it is poorly protected with a few equalized cams in a sandy flare below your feet while summitting on sandy slopers. A fall would be ill-advised.
Descend by a set of fixed raps on double ropes on the east face north of the route- do not attempt to combine raps, and beware of stuck ropes as they are common on this route.
Vision Quest climbs a majority of its length up or near the dihedral system that splits the two towers on the East side. Details are as follows:
P1: Around to the right of the base, on the north tower's east face side, you will see a .75-1.5" fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb this to its top, then move over to the left to the base of a big slot, and belay at the fixed station. (10c)
P2: From the previously mentioned belay, climb a pumpy hand-to-fist crack up for about 100' to another fixed anchor to belay. The overhanging section may be the physical crux of the route. (10d)
P3: From the fixed belay, start up again in another crack that is wide-hands to fists through a bulge for the technical crux of the route. (10d)
P4: Climb up through some big blocks to an area between where the two summits split, and up onto the face on the right (north summit). This pitch is the psychological crux of the route, and while it is 10a max, it is poorly protected with a few equalized cams in a sandy flare below your feet while summitting on sandy slopers. A fall would be ill-advised.
Descend by a set of fixed raps on double ropes on the east face north of the route- do not attempt to combine raps, and beware of stuck ropes as they are common on this route.
Photos
29 Comments