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James Brown's Wild Ride
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 118
votes
Routes in Meat Wall
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80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blocky Lost Johnson, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crime and Punishment for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Czech Mate S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gun Show S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jail Bait - Right Finish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swamp Thing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Rob Floyd, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 6,303 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 21, 2001 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
James Brown is the left of two parallel lines 50 feet or so right 80 feet of Meat. This is another fine line on largely good stone; however, like may routes on this wall, the rock can kick up suspicious chunks that are are a bit off-putting on the sharp end (Personally, I also thought it was spacey getting to the first clip - others may disagree). Lots of crimping on a nearly dead vertical wall with very high continuity generates a largely excellent line. James Brown also gets a bit spacey in the middle, the difficulty does back down here for a short way, however, compared to Sex Machine, James seemed to demand more mind control - pretty cool until the pump starts to set in.
Protection
Eight to ten (Eds. now 11) draws and a rope.
Per Jeremy H: it was re-bolted, but they found that a couple of the original bolts were in hollow rock. They had to make a choice to make the run outs way longer or to add more bolts. We are only allowed to climb in the canyon because the town of Rifle allows it. If someone got hurt because it was re-bolted in a dangerous way, it could jeopardize climbing in the canyon for everyone.
Per Jeremy H: it was re-bolted, but they found that a couple of the original bolts were in hollow rock. They had to make a choice to make the run outs way longer or to add more bolts. We are only allowed to climb in the canyon because the town of Rifle allows it. If someone got hurt because it was re-bolted in a dangerous way, it could jeopardize climbing in the canyon for everyone.
11 Comments