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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater
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+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hole in the Wall TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Mum T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Minnie Mum Variation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Royal Mistress, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,138 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Wolski on May 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
This is a nice route to do after leading the Queen's Throne (which is an easy and really fun 5.4). Lead up the Queen's Throne. Use some webbing to anchor yourself around the spire at the top. Topside belay your second and have him clean the pitch. Then dump a #7 cam in one of the big cracks by the belay stance. There are some smaller cracks closer to the edge that should take a #4 cam. Use the webbing around the spire for your bomber anchor and equalize the two cams for a backup. I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to set up this top rope, but this worked well for me. Throw your rope over the edge that faces the lake, rap off, and you're all set to climb.
Queen's Face is a wake up call at 5.8 after Queen's Throune at 5.4...but that's a good thing. Climb the two parallel flared cracks that go almost all the way to the top. Expect very thin, balancy foot holds. The crux is pretty close to the ground, around the fourth or fifth move. There is a real positive rest hold about half way up. After that, shoot for the top.
You could probably lead this, but like I said, the crux is awful close to the ground and it's really easy to set up a top rope. It's up to you. Overall, a real nice route. It's worth doing a couple of laps on it.
Queen's Face is a wake up call at 5.8 after Queen's Throune at 5.4...but that's a good thing. Climb the two parallel flared cracks that go almost all the way to the top. Expect very thin, balancy foot holds. The crux is pretty close to the ground, around the fourth or fifth move. There is a real positive rest hold about half way up. After that, shoot for the top.
You could probably lead this, but like I said, the crux is awful close to the ground and it's really easy to set up a top rope. It's up to you. Overall, a real nice route. It's worth doing a couple of laps on it.
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