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Looking for trad mentor/partner

Original Post
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Hey,

I just graduated from college in the last month and am looking to get back into climbing with the main goal of learning to trad climb. I climbed the first two years at school and really got into sport climbing, but other things slowly began to take priority and I stopped climbing completely. Now being out of school and away from my climbing friends, I’m looking for other people who are either in a similar position as myself and would like to learn how to trad climb, or experienced climbers looking for partners and willing to teach me. Although I have some free time now, starting in mid/late August I will be able to dedicate the majority, if not all, of my time and effort towards climbing. I’ve had this desire to trad climb for awhile now and I’m inclined to do what it takes to make it happen, whether that be investing in a ton of gear or living out of the back of a car and eating cheap food or a number of other things.

Anyways, get in touch if you have any interest or thoughts.

Thanks,
Alex

Sean H · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 120

Some advice from being largely self taught (worked way up with a friend in the same boat.)

Take an anchoring class. Most important thing. If you can afford it, self rescue is another great thing to learn from a guide/school.

Read a book on climbing anchors (either john long's, or craig luebben's.) Possibly read it twice. Then start doing easy climbs. Don't grade chase while you're learning. Lover's leap has some good ones for this. If you're comfortable in the backcountry, very low 5th would be good too (I say this because consequences are serious if shit goes down and you're 5+ miles from the car.)

The valley is largely a bad place for this, imho, unless you do have a rope gun to follow.

Be overly cautious for a while. Engrain habits like backing up your rappels with a prusik/autoblock. Tie knots in the ends of the rope. Climb at grades you are very unlikely to fall on at first. If you don' have much for crack skills, get them, via single pitch or following. A good hand jam should be a godsend/practically a ladder rung. You do not want to be the sport climber that's laybacking everything on easy cracks or avoiding them for tiny face holds, it will make your trad experience suck.

Anchoring and rescue skills should be your foundation though. It's one thing to be able to get yourself in over your head, but another not to know how to bail and get your self out. The climbs will always be there, make sure you will be too.

Shino · · nomadic · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 625
Sean H wrote:The valley is largely a bad place for this, imho, unless you do have a rope gun to follow.
I second everything Sean suggested with the exception of that statement. While the grades are soft and easy at the Leap, the gear requires careful thought. There have been a lot of accidents at that crag due to poor pro placement. You can argue that this is systemic to newer climbers learning there, but veterans will also attest to that area having cracks that take pro in not the most kindest of ways.

If you are considering the backcountry to learn, I would reconsider and learn in the valley where many crags are right off the road. I'll +1 the self reliance bit that he mentioned, but don't over look or be scared out of learning in Yosemite. I know handfuls upon handfuls of climbers that learned there and are all still alive. First look at some of the easy <5.7 climbs in the Supertopo. There's also a Yosemite Top Rope Guide You could mock lead or TR the hell out of a climb and then try to lead it yourself. You don't *need* a mentor. In fact, it's quite fun to learn with someone of near ability because you're both invested in figuring it all out and you have to be patient because you'll demand the same level of tolerance for your highly possible junk show.

Your best possible scenario is to go with someone that is comfortable onsighting two or three grades higher than your current ability. Let them follow you up a climb they know they can do if you cannot finish. More likely, however, you will finish the climb and then you both can discuss what you thought of your gear placements and he or she can confirm or run screaming, thankful that they're still alive after getting belayed off of the most horrific anchor they've ever set their eyes on. <-- I have seen this happen on more than one occasion. Climbing isn't a good first date activity. Second, maybe.

C1 aid is also a great way to trust and understand your pro placements. If you're really hesitant, go sport climbing on gear at the creek. You can get your crack climbing skills dialed and launch off of most all the splitters there.

Sure the gear placements can be tricky in the valley. But I can't say this enough: idiots should not be climbing. Get psyched and have fun!
saltlick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 475

+1 on anchoring fundamentals... plenty of "experienced" tradsters get themselves hurt or killed every year by forgetting or ignoring basic rules of roped climbing.

Even after 10+ years of climbing and actively trying to educate myself on how-to-not-die-better, I still learn valuable new lessons everytime I climb with a guide - it's money well-spent.

NickViator · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 10

Definitely take the anchors class and a self-rescue class early on--it will pay off. AMGA guides can seem a little pricey, but it's worth every penny not to mention you'll already have started developing skills you can use later when you get into aid climbing, big wall climbing, solo climbing, etc.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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