Looking for trad mentor/partner
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Hey, |
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Some advice from being largely self taught (worked way up with a friend in the same boat.) |
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Sean H wrote:The valley is largely a bad place for this, imho, unless you do have a rope gun to follow.I second everything Sean suggested with the exception of that statement. While the grades are soft and easy at the Leap, the gear requires careful thought. There have been a lot of accidents at that crag due to poor pro placement. You can argue that this is systemic to newer climbers learning there, but veterans will also attest to that area having cracks that take pro in not the most kindest of ways. If you are considering the backcountry to learn, I would reconsider and learn in the valley where many crags are right off the road. I'll +1 the self reliance bit that he mentioned, but don't over look or be scared out of learning in Yosemite. I know handfuls upon handfuls of climbers that learned there and are all still alive. First look at some of the easy <5.7 climbs in the Supertopo. There's also a Yosemite Top Rope Guide You could mock lead or TR the hell out of a climb and then try to lead it yourself. You don't *need* a mentor. In fact, it's quite fun to learn with someone of near ability because you're both invested in figuring it all out and you have to be patient because you'll demand the same level of tolerance for your highly possible junk show. Your best possible scenario is to go with someone that is comfortable onsighting two or three grades higher than your current ability. Let them follow you up a climb they know they can do if you cannot finish. More likely, however, you will finish the climb and then you both can discuss what you thought of your gear placements and he or she can confirm or run screaming, thankful that they're still alive after getting belayed off of the most horrific anchor they've ever set their eyes on. <-- I have seen this happen on more than one occasion. Climbing isn't a good first date activity. Second, maybe. C1 aid is also a great way to trust and understand your pro placements. If you're really hesitant, go sport climbing on gear at the creek. You can get your crack climbing skills dialed and launch off of most all the splitters there. Sure the gear placements can be tricky in the valley. But I can't say this enough: idiots should not be climbing. Get psyched and have fun! |
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+1 on anchoring fundamentals... plenty of "experienced" tradsters get themselves hurt or killed every year by forgetting or ignoring basic rules of roped climbing. |
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Definitely take the anchors class and a self-rescue class early on--it will pay off. AMGA guides can seem a little pricey, but it's worth every penny not to mention you'll already have started developing skills you can use later when you get into aid climbing, big wall climbing, solo climbing, etc. |