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Rack Advice for Vantage (Frenchman Coulee)

Original Post
Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Last time I went to Vantage I just did sport climbing but since then I have started to work on trad and working on a rack of my own. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for extra pieces that are helpful at Vantage?

ross.mon · · Montana · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 165

Singles of hands up with some extra fingers and smaller cams and nuts will take you far in the Coulee...a penchant for extreme heat will help as well if you plan on going soon

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Thanks Ross, looks like I am on my way to being all set to go then. I only climb there in the Fall and Spring so the heat isn't as much of a problem as the summer time.

Rafe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 510

It seems like most things start off smaller and widen the higher you go.

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Perfect, I will work on adding to the smaller end of my rack.

Phalanges · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 240

I'd say that a #4 or the old 3.5 camalot is also good to have for the last piece on a lot of the classic 9s and 10s on the sunshine wall. Many times the crux comes right at the end and it's good to have that piece when you are pumped and it widens past fists at the top. We borrowed one and were glad to have it.

Ethan Henderson · · Washington · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 602

i'd say singles up to .75 then doubles up to 3 with a single 4 will get you up the classic routes up to .10a very comfortably.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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