Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 3. Southeast Face
The Shortest Straw
A4-
Avg: 3.7 from 10
votes
Routes in 3. Southeast Face
|
|
Atlantic Ocean Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
|
|
Born Under A Bad Sign T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A5 |
|
|
Continental Drift T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
|
|
Dawn Wall, The T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
|
|
Eagle's Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
|
|
El Niño T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Ephemeron T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
|
|
Hamas Fights For Freedom A5+ |
|
|
Lost in America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4 |
|
|
Lunar Eclipse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 PG13 |
|
|
Mescalito T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3 |
|
|
Native Son 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
|
|
Neptune T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4+ |
|
|
New Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3+ |
|
|
North America Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
|
|
Pacific Ocean Wall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3+ R |
|
|
Scorched Earth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 PG13 |
|
|
Shortest Straw, The A4- |
|
|
South Seas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
|
|
Tangerine Trip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
|
|
Tribal Rite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
|
|
Virginia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
|
|
Wall of Early Morning Light T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
|
|
Zenyatta Mondatta A4- |
|
|
Zodiac C3 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Aid, 1800 ft (545 m), 15 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Rick Lovelace - March 1990 |
| Page Views: | 8,672 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Jul 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Interesting hooking, lack of awkward pitches and a few memorable sections characterize this ephemeral line. While few will list this as their favorite route it is fun and enjoyable climbing if you can tolerate a few rivets. Most parties will fix 1-2 pitches and spend another 4-7 days on the wall. While the route is fairly overhanging seeps can wetten your belays/bivies especially lower on the route.
We found the route generally safe with the Journey Through the Brain as the crux pitch. My partner found several good cams on the JTTB in between a good bit of hooking. The second A4 pitch goes through poor and hollow rock but the placements are reasonable. Another pitch listed as A3 up higher is intricate and has a couple of tricky placements.
There are basically no ledges on the route until you connect back in with Zodiac at Peanut ledge.
We found the route generally safe with the Journey Through the Brain as the crux pitch. My partner found several good cams on the JTTB in between a good bit of hooking. The second A4 pitch goes through poor and hollow rock but the placements are reasonable. Another pitch listed as A3 up higher is intricate and has a couple of tricky placements.
There are basically no ledges on the route until you connect back in with Zodiac at Peanut ledge.
Location
The route begins in a shallow corner just to the left of Zodiac and goes up between Zodiac and Zenyatta Mondatta.
Protection
All anchors have at least one good bolt and accomodate two portaledges.
Gear Beta
Cams - doubles up to 4.5 (for the big pitch on Zodiac above Peanut ledge)
Offset cams - double set
Iron
2-4 baby angles, blades, LAs each
6-8 peckers/tomahawks make things much easier.
A wide variety of hooks and probably one large hook with good clearance would be helpful.
3-4 #1-#3 copperheads each
15-20 rivet hangers (or more if you want for the Sun and Steel pitch)
Gear Beta
Cams - doubles up to 4.5 (for the big pitch on Zodiac above Peanut ledge)
Offset cams - double set
Iron
2-4 baby angles, blades, LAs each
6-8 peckers/tomahawks make things much easier.
A wide variety of hooks and probably one large hook with good clearance would be helpful.
3-4 #1-#3 copperheads each
15-20 rivet hangers (or more if you want for the Sun and Steel pitch)
4 Comments