Pitch 2 roof

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Washington Pass > Kangaroo Ridge > Le Petit Cheval > Spontaneity Arete (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Pitch 2 roof

ID 107213179 ·

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taylor climbing the Goldie Crack on the last pitch.

Start of pitch 1. Most official route seems to start on the left crack as drawn. It's an awkward start, but after some searching you'll find some footholds.

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atfarley farley

Jul 15, 2011

“Pitch 2 roof”

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Start of P5. Either stay left in the corner the whole way or start on the middle crack and then traverse left into the corner. Do NOT follow the right crack over to the edge. It leads to a sketchy traverse platform that definitely isn't the route

The P5 options. Either stay in the corner from the start or follow the middle and traverse left. Don't follow the wide right crack.

Pitch 7 optional crack. Starts with #3 and then gets smaller. It's the trickiest section of the entire climb.

The route

Just before the first pitch, the final 5th class scramble up to the start. Iconic curved dead tree marks the spot! Scramble up to this onto a dirt ledge, or start belaying from here.

Cutthroat Fire as seen from Spontaneity Arete, 7/29/18

Pitch 6

Pitch 7

class 3 after pitch two

taylor climbing the Goldie Crack on the last pitch.

Pitch 2 roof

Start of pitch 1. Most official route seems to start on the left crack as drawn. It's an awkward start, but after some searching you'll find some footholds.

Pitch 3 takes you back up onto the ridge, there seem to be a lot of potential entry points

P5 traverse is one of the only real slab portions of the route, 2-3 moves with fingers out climbers right

Coming onto the leftward traverse near the top of P5

Pitch 5, we went on the climbers right of the options; probably the corner would have been easier but both are not too hard.

Pitch 4, above the "crux" - I did not think this pitch was the hardest as per Supertopo book's description

Last little boulder problem to the start of the climb

Summit views

Handline 3

Handline 2

Alpine Start time, on the approach

Optional last pitch, Goldie Crack the 5.7 handcrack

Rapping pitch 4

Starting up P1

P5 traverse going for the fingers

Dawn views above the handlines

Above P6's crack system, I think haha

approach is a fun scramble, not as loose as I expected

This is the earliest spot to get into the ridge. White line is 3rd class scramble to beginning of pitch 2. Yellow line is 4th class to the top of pitch 2. Additionally you can continue on to find other options. Or just start at pitch 1 around the corner.

The beginning of Pitch 4. Just go up the easiest terrain, it's all pretty easy.

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