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Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Tumwater Canyon
> Midnight & Noon…
> Midnight Rock
The Sting
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Midnight Rock
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Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Corner Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dagoba System T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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For Whom the Bell Tolls T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sting, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,118 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Eric8 on Apr 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock
Details
Every year, Midnight Rock and Noontime Rock are seasonally closed for Peregrine falcon nesting, April 1st through approximately July 31st, or or until the young falcons have fledged or FS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. More info at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
This route is located directly below ROTC. Do to some confusion in the older Leavenworth Rock guidebook people frequently get on this thinking it is the 10b approach to ROTC, that I believe that is the right most of these two routes. At 11b this is no one move wonder but an endurance crux despite a sit down ledge at the midpoint.
Its best to do a short pitch to the base of the corner and belay at the tree. From here continue up the corner, much harder than it looks, it felt like I was using every trick in the book. Hands, fists, stemming, chimney technique, I switched the side of the corner my back was on at least 3 times. If you thought this pitch was going to be 10b then your expecting crack above to be a bomber hand crack. Instead you get a slightly right trending 0.75 camalot crack. You can put your left toe in the crack but your right foot has to make use of flexing lichen covered flakes...this crack takes you to the sit down ledge.
Above the ledge grunt up an offwidth for 15ft or so feet and then tackle a hand/layback crack that would be much easier if it wasn't for all the climbing below.
Its best to do a short pitch to the base of the corner and belay at the tree. From here continue up the corner, much harder than it looks, it felt like I was using every trick in the book. Hands, fists, stemming, chimney technique, I switched the side of the corner my back was on at least 3 times. If you thought this pitch was going to be 10b then your expecting crack above to be a bomber hand crack. Instead you get a slightly right trending 0.75 camalot crack. You can put your left toe in the crack but your right foot has to make use of flexing lichen covered flakes...this crack takes you to the sit down ledge.
Above the ledge grunt up an offwidth for 15ft or so feet and then tackle a hand/layback crack that would be much easier if it wasn't for all the climbing below.
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