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One hand amputated--which belay device to use?

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625
slim wrote: red, i have to agree with most folks that you kind of come off sounding pretty harsh.
Not at all my intent. Thanks for letting me know this in a calm and respectful way. Let me just state the obvious for some folk; I never belittled or insulted people that have amputated hands or limbs. The idea of doing so is cruel and horrible. I feel for anyone that has had to have anything amputated. I cannot imagine having to go through that. I know it would put me into a deep depression. So it actually inspires me to know that people like Mo are kicking ass. More power to them!

I have never been around a one handed belayer and when I first saw this thread yesterday, the idea was so foreign to me that I had to ask. and I got responses. I definitely know more about it know but I'd still like to see it in person.
Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365
Red wrote:Who would really wants a one handed person belaying them? Not I.
This is not curious, respectful or inspired. It is insulting. Intended or not that is why I responded the way I did.

Red wrote:I definitely know more about it know but I'd still like to see it in person.
We've been meaning to take some video of her belaying, climbing and her semi famous one handed Munter for a while. If we remember I'll try to post it up.
La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
Jake D. wrote: This is not curious, respectful or inspired. It is insulting. Intended or not that is why I responded the way I did. We've been meaning to take some video of her belaying, climbing and her semi famous one handed Munter for a while. If we remember I'll try to post it up.
Ahahaha I forgot about the munter. Call it the Mo-nter?
Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625
Jake D. wrote: This is not curious, respectful or inspired. It is insulting. Intended or not that is why I responded the way I did.
I don't think you read the entirety of my last post. Towards the end I explained that that was my first thought and that since I have learned a lot more. I don't feel that what I said was insulting. I do not understand why you feel insulted by me not being comfortable with the idea of a one handed person belaying me. Again, I'd still like to see it in person.

You also still seem to be having trouble following the timeline of the posts. When I made my first post nobody with one hand had posted up yet. Since then, Mo and people who know others with one hand have posted. Those posts have inspired me with their positive attitudes and their continuing to try to get better at climbing (and belaying apparently). The positive attitudes are what stuck out the most though.
La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
Red wrote: I don't think you read the entirety of my last post. Towards the end I explained that that was my first thought and that since I have learned a lot more. I don't feel that what I said was insulting. I do not understand why you feel insulted by me not being comfortable with the idea of a one handed person belaying me. Again, I'd still like to see it in person. You also still seem to be having trouble following the timeline of the posts. When I made my first post nobody with one hand had posted up yet. Since then, Mo and people who know others with one hand have posted. Those posts have inspired me with their positive attitudes and their continuing to try to get better at climbing (and belaying apparently). The positive attitudes are what stuck out the most though.
It was a pretty dick thing to say.
JesseT · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2011 · Points: 100
Red wrote: ...I don't feel that what I said was insulting. I do not understand why you feel insulted by me not being comfortable with the idea of a one handed person belaying me...
The reason it was insulting is because your knee-jerk reaction was to sell someone short by automatically assuming that it would be impossible for them to give a safe belay just because they're missing a hand. The choice to jump to a conclusion that unrealistically limited others' abilities before first seeking a greater understanding of the situation is what was insulting.
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Momoface wrote: It was a pretty dick thing to say.
Yup.

Here's a hint, Red. If you take what you said here:
Red wrote:Who would really wants a one handed person belaying them? Not I.
and replaced "one handed" with "black", "Jewish", or one of any number of other terms would you still think it wasn't insensitive? Regardless of how much you try to backpedal you were over the line and you got a well deserved smackdown because of it.
La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
Aric Datesman wrote: Yup. Here's a hint, Red. If you take what you said here: and replaced "one handed" with "black", "Jewish", or one of any number of other terms would you still think it wasn't insensitive? Regardless of how much you try to backpedal you were over the line and you got a well deserved smackdown because of it.
I will not be belayed by gingers. It's totally unsafe.
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Momoface wrote: I will not be belayed by gingers. It's totally unsafe.
Seeing you're married to one, that attitude isn't surprising.
Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365
Momoface wrote: I will not be belayed by gingers. It's totally unsafe.
  • lumberjack shitz pants in rage*


shit fuck gu'd Aric !
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

i personally would have concerns about being lead belayed by someone with one hand

not to say i wouldnt do it ... but like anything else i really dont want to be dropped ... if that person can belay me safely with good technique and not short rope me, thats all i want to know

i have concerns about 2 handed people as well ... but i suspect that 2 hands are an advantage everything else being equal

id be much more concerned on multipitch should a rescue scenario arise ...

of course id rather be belayed by a one handed person safely than a 2 handed person that doesnt know what they are doing

La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
bearbreeder wrote:i personally would have concerns about being lead belayed by someone with one hand not to say i wouldnt do it ... but like anything else i really dont want to be dropped ... if that person can belay me safely with good technique and not short rope me, thats all i want to know i have concerns about 2 handed people as well ... but i suspect that 2 hands are an advantage everything else being equal id be much more concerned on multipitch should a rescue scenario arise ... of course id rather be belayed by a one handed person safely than a 2 handed person that doesnt know what they are doing
Totally understandable. I approach climbing with someone missing a limb as I do with anyone: are they safe? are they smart? are they going to hurt me/themselves? do they love lady gaga on the drive as much as I do?

Were you thinking of a specific multi-pitch rescue scenario? Remember, most folks with one hand don't ONLY have one hand, you still have two good arms. I feel like I have one hand but six fingers with my stump.
Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625
iamjester wrote: The reason it was insulting is because your knee-jerk reaction was to sell someone short by automatically assuming that it would be impossible for them to give a safe belay just because they're missing a hand.
You are the one assuming. I never said anything relating to safety in that post. re-read it.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Momoface wrote: Totally understandable. I approach climbing with someone missing a limb as I do with anyone: are they safe? are they smart? are they going to hurt me/themselves? do they love lady gaga on the drive as much as I do? Were you thinking of a specific multi-pitch rescue scenario? Remember, most folks with one hand don't ONLY have one hand, you still have two good arms. I feel like I have one hand but six fingers with my stump.
escaping the belay comes to mind ...

or if that person is planning to lead certain pitches ... hauling my phat azz upp..

being able to prussik up to me if i slip and take a nap ...

etc ...
La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
bearbreeder wrote: escaping the belay comes to mind ... or if that person is planning to lead certain pitches ... hauling my phat azz upp.. being able to prussik up to me if i slip and take a nap ... etc ...
Yup, can do and have done all that. Next?
Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625
Aric Datesman wrote: Here's a hint, Red. If you take what you said here: ... and replaced "one handed" with "black", "Jewish", or one of any number of other terms would you still think it wasn't insensitive?
LMFAO Where the hell did you come up with that load of crap? That is about the dumbest thing you could have posted. Being black or Jewish has nothing to do with ones ability to belay.
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Red wrote: LMFAO Where the hell did you come up with that load of crap? That is about the dumbest thing you could have posted. Being black or Jewish has nothing to do with ones ability to belay.
Nor does only having one hand.
Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365
Red wrote: LMFAO Where the hell did you come up with that load of crap? That is about the dumbest thing you could have posted. Being black or Jewish has nothing to do with ones ability to belay.
"First Rule of Holes: if you find yourself stuck in one, stop digging.”
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Momoface wrote: Yup, can do and have done all that. Next?
and use my iphone to call SAR ;)

then were good for a run up the chief next time yr in squamish
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Jake D. wrote: "First Rule of Holes: if you find yourself stuck in one, stop digging.”
Speaking of LMFAO.... :-)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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