One hand amputated--which belay device to use?

Phil Lauffen wrote: Really? How do you feed slack quickly with one hand? Lowering would be sketchy as well. Maybe one of those new devices, like the click 'n up or whatever its called would work.

Doesn't matter, the most important thing you can do so you can both enjoy the experience (it doesen't matter how hard your climbing or the objective at this point) is that the person that is leading, or the person that is guiding etc, whatever it may be is there for the other person. You are there to share the experience of climbing whatever it may be so the most important thing is that you climb well below your limit so that the amputee can work on their challenge of technique. I don't believe their is any barrier in the ability for someone with one hand to give an adequate lead belay, but like all things will require practice. So start slow and let them find what works for them by climbing really easy routes at first so you possibly can fall or take and see how they handle it.

For lowering, Well that is easy as pie. Let them lower you every time , Put a prusik on the belay side of the rope attached to your body in a counter balance setup and let them lower you every time. you will need to manage the prusik, but you can monitor and let them figure it out. You watch them and they work on their technique or system if you will that might work but you are glued to your prusik and letting them deal with it. I give my faith in any amputee that they will figure it out if you let them work with it.

Before long you wont need that prussik anymore ;-) I have worked with people with worse disabilities and I would let them belay me anytime.

Momoface wrote: If you've ever been dropped by a one-handed belayer, it might not have been an accident.

That's awesome +1

jimmy wesley wrote:I know someone that has one hand amputated and wants to belay (both top rope and someone leading). Any suggestions on what type of belay device she can use to safely belay??

You might consider posting your question on rockclimbing.com. There is a user there, "carabiner69," who has only one arm and climbs.

Jay

Jay that is Momoface... one in the same.

Jay Tanzman wrote: You might consider posting your question on rockclimbing.com. There is a user there, "carabiner69," who has only one arm and climbs. Jay

It's '96', '69' makes me blush. Also, Misty Murphy called me biner69 when she was feeling particularly hormonal.

there is also a fellow named pete in boulder who is a really cool guy and a very good climber. i've seen him climbing a few times but didn't notice what he used for a belay device.

this thread got me thinking a bit. if me and a partner were high up on a route (high enough that topping out would be almost mandatory, something in the black would be a good example), how would we deal with a hand/arm injury that put us in a similar situation? i think one option would be that the injured person would use 2 locking carabiners on their harness and then use 2 clove hitches in series. it would be a pain in the ass, but would probably work.

Jake D. wrote: I have, It's fine. Along with many of my other friends. Has even caught whips that took her off her feet. Perhaps you should think before you talk?

Perhaps you should. I'm not so worried about a one handed belayer dropping me as long as they obviously never let go of the break. I like to clip quick and keep climbing. I also have pretty long arms so I need a lot of slack fast. I'd get tired of being short roped and I sure wouldn't want them to concentrate more on feeding slack than holding the break.

Here is some first hand experience for you:
Momoface wrote:
Lowering isn't hard at all with one hand (depending on how long your arm is)

Paying out slack is.

in response to:

Phil Lauffen wrote:Really? How do you feed slack quickly with one hand? Lowering would be sketchy as well. Maybe one of those new devices, like the click 'n up or whatever its called would work.

Abram Herman wrote: +1, that was completely insensitive.

Are you kidding me? Tell me one thing that was insensitive in my questions or comments.

Red wrote: Perhaps you should. I'm not so worried about a one handed belayer dropping me as long as they obviously never let go of the break. I like to clip quick and keep climbing. I also have pretty long arms so I need a lot of slack fast. I'd get tired of being short roped and I sure wouldn't want them to concentrate more on feeding slack than holding the break. Here is some first hand experience for you: Momoface wrote: Lowering isn't hard at all with one hand (depending on how long your arm is) Paying out slack is. in response to:

Well I am good friends with Momoface and i've climbed plenty of routes with her and she does a great job.

So that "first hand experience" is sometimes with ME on lead. YOU however have no experience so again shove your foot down your throat.

Phil's comment was pure speculation, I am guessing he has never been belayed or seen someone belay one handed. So trying to use speculation as evidence is pretty poor.

you are a douchebag. 2 people are reading this thread that have disabilities that you could never imagine and are overcoming it to climb and belay.

Have some fucking respect. ASSHOLE

Red wrote: Perhaps you should. I'm not so worried about a one handed belayer dropping me as long as they obviously never let go of the break. I like to clip quick and keep climbing. I also have pretty long arms so I need a lot of slack fast. I'd get tired of being short roped and I sure wouldn't want them to concentrate more on feeding slack than holding the break. Here is some first hand experience for you: Momoface wrote: Lowering isn't hard at all with one hand (depending on how long your arm is) Paying out slack is. in response to:

Paying out slack is....with a gri gri. It's easy as pie with a traditional device.

slim wrote:there is also a fellow named pete in boulder who is a really cool guy and a very good climber. i've seen him climbing a few times but didn't notice what he used for a belay device. this thread got me thinking a bit. if me and a partner were high up on a route (high enough that topping out would be almost mandatory, something in the black would be a good example), how would we deal with a hand/arm injury that put us in a similar situation? i think one option would be that the injured person would use 2 locking carabiners on their harness and then use 2 clove hitches in series. it would be a pain in the ass, but would probably work.

Pete lives in the Western Slope now, he's a great person to talk to is someone has a shorter arm. Mine is pretty long. When we climb together, it's a hoot. He's also a lefty where I'm a righty, so there tends to be a lot of cursing.

Jake D. wrote: Well I am good friends with Momoface and i've climbed plenty of routes with her and she does a great job. So that "first hand experience" is sometimes with ME on lead. YOU however have no experience so again shove your foot down your throat. Phil's comment was pure speculation, I am guessing he has never been belayed or seen someone belay one handed. So trying to use speculation as evidence is pretty poor. you are a douchebag. 2 people are reading this thread that have disabilities that you could never imagine and are overcoming it to climb and belay. Have some fucking respect. ASSHOLE

The POWER of the keyboard compels you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You would never talk to a stranger like that in person. You sure as hell wouldn't talk to me like that face to face.

You need to chill the fuck out man and act like an adult. "shove your foot down your throat, douchebag, ASSHOLE" You sound real educated. Nice way to state your views.

All I and Phil did was ask some questions. Way to label our questions as "pure speculation". The "first hand experience" was a quote from your climbing partner that has one hand. I must have just been speculating again when I took her quote at face value.

Grow up man.

Red wrote: The POWER of the keyboard compels you!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You would never talk to a stranger like that in person. You sure as hell wouldn't talk to me like that face to face. You need to chill the fuck out man and act like an adult. "shove your foot down your throat, douchebag, ASSHOLE" You sound real educated. Nice way to state your views. All I and Phil did was ask some questions. Way to label our questions as "pure speculation". The "first hand experience" was a quote from your climbing partner that has one hand. I must have just been speculating again when I took her quote at face value. Grow up man.

If you were talking shit to Mo in person I most certainly would.

"Paying out slack is.

in response to:
Phil Lauffen wrote:
Really? How do you feed slack quickly with one hand? Lowering would be sketchy as well. Maybe one of those new devices, like the click 'n up or whatever its called would work. "

You are worried about clipping, the only people who have said anything about it being hard to feed slack are people who have never had experience with it.

check the last post by Mo, she said that with a gri gri it sucks but with a normal tube device it is fine.

her first hand experience with something you're not arguing about is like saying I hate cheese! but the sky is blue...

Just a reminder...

Red wrote:Who would really wants a one handed person belaying them? Not I.

And another one bites the dust.

Momoface wrote: Pete lives in the Western Slope now, he's a great person to talk to is someone has a shorter arm. Mine is pretty long. When we climb together, it's a hoot. He's also a lefty where I'm a righty, so there tends to be a lot of cursing.

watching pete climb the very overhanging stuff in the gym was just simply amazing. i would watch him do a move that, for a lot of people, was pretty reachy. he is very clever. not to mention watching him clip on these routes. unreal. he has a great sense of body positioning. super cool guy too. hope all is going well for him over on the western slope.

red, i have to agree with most folks that you kind of come off sounding pretty harsh. judging from your description of your climbing style, i don't think it would be too big a problem for a person to belay you with one hand with a grigri. they would just keep an extra bit of slack out.

judging by most of phil's comments that i have read over the years, i kind of interpreted his response as more of a "wow that's pretty wild" as opposed to "i would never let a person with one hand belay me". if my interpretation is incorrect hopefully phil will set me straight.

Jake D. wrote: If you were talking shit to Mo in person I most certainly would. "Paying out slack is. in response to: Phil Lauffen wrote: Really? How do you feed slack quickly with one hand? Lowering would be sketchy as well. Maybe one of those new devices, like the click 'n up or whatever its called would work. " You are worried about clipping, the only people who have said anything about it being hard to feed slack are people who have never had experience with it. check the last post by Mo, she said that with a gri gri it sucks but with a normal tube device it is fine. her first hand experience with something you're not arguing about is like saying I hate cheese! but the sky is blue... Just a reminder...

Too bad I can never give second hand experience.

Heh?

1. I don't even know Mo; Why would I talk shit to her. Why would you assume that I would?
2. She made the comment about the grigri AFTER my post quoting her. Can you follow the timeline?

Jake D. wrote: You are worried about clipping, the only people who have said anything about it being hard to feed slack are people who have never had experience with it.

correct. that is why we are curious.

Momoface wrote: Too bad I can never give second hand experience. Heh?

You seem like you have a really good attitude Mo! It's too bad your friend is being so defensive when you don't seem to be. Keep kicking ass and getting stronger with your climbing!

slim wrote: watching pete climb the very overhanging stuff in the gym was just simply amazing. i would watch him do a move that, for a lot of people, was pretty reachy. he is very clever. not to mention watching him clip on these routes. unreal. he has a great sense of body positioning. super cool guy too. hope all is going well for him over on the western slope. red, i have to agree with most folks that you kind of come off sounding pretty harsh. judging from your description of your climbing style, i don't think it would be too big a problem for a person to belay you with one hand with a grigri. they would just keep an extra bit of slack out. judging by most of phil's comments that i have read over the years, i kind of interpreted his response as more of a "wow that's pretty wild" as opposed to "i would never let a person with one hand belay me". if my interpretation is incorrect hopefully phil will set me straight.

Hehe watching pete is pretty freaking impressive. I watched him go completely horizontal and mantle up on his stump to make a long reach that i thought he had no chance on.

I think the best thing that came from this so far is the Alpine Smart might be the answer. It feeds like a tube and catches like a grigri..

Momoface is Carabiner69?

I knew she was hot, but the beach photo is even better. Glad to see you are in Teluride now!