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Saturnalia
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 35
votes
Routes in The Bastille - N Face
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Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dalke Offwidth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Madame Guillotine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Marie de Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northcutt Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Wide Country Lite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | Steve Dieckhoff and Mike Gilbert, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 4,141 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 18, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Saturnalia is a single pitch climb worthy of a star or two, but comes on top of 2-3 other pitches of good rock and good climbing. All-in-all, I don't know of a way to get this route without doing at least 2-star climbing.
Climb Bastille to Outer Space, or X-M to reach the big sloping ledge as for the final pitch of Outer Space. From the base of the last pitch of Outer Space, traverse up and right on the ledge perhaps an additional 10-15 feet. You will see a brown-painted bolt hanger overhead at the lip of the overhang. Build the belay for the base here.
Climb chalked up holds from the ledge upward and left to reach a few stopper placements (good #4 and #12 BD, or Eq size) which are nice, considering one loose hold immediately above them. Continue up and left to the jugs and the clip (reachy for short people) and then pull the lip of the overhang (5.10) and establish yourself on the upper wall. Climb up a slightly wandering, but obvious line of holds, passing a few placements to reach a 'diagonal/horizontal' crack (2-3.5" cams) and then up and left towards the second bolt. Clipping the second bolt can be done from the best holds if you are very tall. If you are of average height, it will be thinner holds for a strenuous clip. If you are short, it might be a little ennervating. After clipping the bolt, continue up past thinning, improbable holds to the left, directly, or to the right have all been done (3 ppl's beta, 3 different ways) but each are difficult. Establish yourself on a sloping ledge with a few juggy holds and place gear in a crack low and to the left (large stopper + .75-1" cam). From there, continue straight up on 'Lost In Space' (5.9, R 'lost with spice?') on a few questionable looking holds and not much protection, or start up and then traverse left to Outer Space (5.10-, but better protection).
This is not a good climb to do on a hot, slimy day.
Beware of loose rock!
Climb Bastille to Outer Space, or X-M to reach the big sloping ledge as for the final pitch of Outer Space. From the base of the last pitch of Outer Space, traverse up and right on the ledge perhaps an additional 10-15 feet. You will see a brown-painted bolt hanger overhead at the lip of the overhang. Build the belay for the base here.
Climb chalked up holds from the ledge upward and left to reach a few stopper placements (good #4 and #12 BD, or Eq size) which are nice, considering one loose hold immediately above them. Continue up and left to the jugs and the clip (reachy for short people) and then pull the lip of the overhang (5.10) and establish yourself on the upper wall. Climb up a slightly wandering, but obvious line of holds, passing a few placements to reach a 'diagonal/horizontal' crack (2-3.5" cams) and then up and left towards the second bolt. Clipping the second bolt can be done from the best holds if you are very tall. If you are of average height, it will be thinner holds for a strenuous clip. If you are short, it might be a little ennervating. After clipping the bolt, continue up past thinning, improbable holds to the left, directly, or to the right have all been done (3 ppl's beta, 3 different ways) but each are difficult. Establish yourself on a sloping ledge with a few juggy holds and place gear in a crack low and to the left (large stopper + .75-1" cam). From there, continue straight up on 'Lost In Space' (5.9, R 'lost with spice?') on a few questionable looking holds and not much protection, or start up and then traverse left to Outer Space (5.10-, but better protection).
This is not a good climb to do on a hot, slimy day.
Beware of loose rock!
Protection
The crux is protected by a bolt at your feet, but there are other considerable moves with trad gear or little gear at all protecting the fall. A rack with a single set of muts and cams 0.5"-3" is probably as good as you can do. [The] larger cams fit in a horizontal placement before the crux bolt and do add mental comfort/security to the long moves to reach the clip.
8 Comments