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Routes in Continental Crag
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Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Continental Breakfast T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Continental Drift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Continental Soldier T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cougar Bait T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuzzy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last, But Not Least T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On-Slot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pangaea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plate Tectonics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Primal Scream T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rift Of Consciousness T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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River of Deceit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Welcome to Eldo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whatever Pops Up Next T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whymper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Peter Spindloe and Jenny Schillinger |
| Page Views: | 1,239 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Apr 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Closure
Details
2/8/24: from M. McHugh: eagles are nesting in the Rattlesnake Gulch area. Continental Crag, all routes thereupon, and all approach routes thereto: closed. At this time, all other crags (esp. Shirt Tail) and routes (esp. The Edge) in Eldorado Canyon State Park are open. For climbing areas outside of the park (esp. Mickey Mouse et al), climbers should consult the appropriate agencies.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
bouldercounty.gov/open-spac…
Previously: per Mike McHugh, ECSP Park Resource Technician, March 2023: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin and the Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previously in 2020: Raptor Closure (effective immediately)
Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail above the Crags Hotel Ruin and Continental Divide Overlook in order to protect golden eagles nesting on the south side of the canyon. The closure also includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
All activities, including rock climbing and hiking, are prohibited in these areas through July 15, 2020 or until further notice. This closure was authorized by Park Ranger D. Bergman.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
from cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
As of March 13, 2018:
Per Mike McHugh: until July 15th, Continental Crag is closed for eagles.
Prior info:
A pair of nesting golden eagles have been spotted by Christian Nunes, wildlife biology tech, OSMP. Thus, the Continental Crag and the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch trail have been closed.
These are thought to be different birds than those who were nesting previously in the Diamond Head/SOBO Buttress area/ridge.
Please respect these closures.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
bouldercounty.gov/open-spac…
Previously: per Mike McHugh, ECSP Park Resource Technician, March 2023: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin and the Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previously in 2020: Raptor Closure (effective immediately)
Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail above the Crags Hotel Ruin and Continental Divide Overlook in order to protect golden eagles nesting on the south side of the canyon. The closure also includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
All activities, including rock climbing and hiking, are prohibited in these areas through July 15, 2020 or until further notice. This closure was authorized by Park Ranger D. Bergman.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
from cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
As of March 13, 2018:
Per Mike McHugh: until July 15th, Continental Crag is closed for eagles.
Prior info:
A pair of nesting golden eagles have been spotted by Christian Nunes, wildlife biology tech, OSMP. Thus, the Continental Crag and the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch trail have been closed.
These are thought to be different birds than those who were nesting previously in the Diamond Head/SOBO Buttress area/ridge.
Please respect these closures.
Description
This route is located on the left side of the prow that is immediately left of "Paradise Lost" which is listed in Rossiter's guidebook. It is a fairly obvious, large, vertical crack.
Start near the base of "Paradise Lost" and trend left into a very nice 5.8 dihedral, through a rotten band that looks more loose than it turned out to be, and get into a nice stem below the wide crack. Arrange protection as desired and attempt to climb it without laybacking. After trying, resort to laybacking. It's only a few burly moves until you can rest and figure out the awkward top out. Arrange protection for your second as best as possible and walk down the back slab to a good belay tree.
This climb got its name from the fact that this was Jenny's first climb ever in Eldorado Canyon and involved a slog up to the crag, a first ascent, and seeing Tony pass out and convulse while leading. Fortunately, in the parking lot she told us that not much could freak her out, and she was right.
Start near the base of "Paradise Lost" and trend left into a very nice 5.8 dihedral, through a rotten band that looks more loose than it turned out to be, and get into a nice stem below the wide crack. Arrange protection as desired and attempt to climb it without laybacking. After trying, resort to laybacking. It's only a few burly moves until you can rest and figure out the awkward top out. Arrange protection for your second as best as possible and walk down the back slab to a good belay tree.
This climb got its name from the fact that this was Jenny's first climb ever in Eldorado Canyon and involved a slog up to the crag, a first ascent, and seeing Tony pass out and convulse while leading. Fortunately, in the parking lot she told us that not much could freak her out, and she was right.
Protection
The first half of this route takes some nice stoppers and a single set of cams. The second half was protected on the FA by a #4 Camalot and a slung chockstone, done this way it deserves an "s" for ankle breaking potential. A #4.5 or #5 Camalot would have removed the "s".
Note, that because of the way the climb tops out, the second has some exposed moves to make above protection.
Note, that because of the way the climb tops out, the second has some exposed moves to make above protection.
Photos
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