Bouldering Shoe

I would appreciate some help, I'm looking for a bouldering shoe that would be used for vertical and/or slab problems. I want a high performance shoe that has powerful edging but can still smear a bit if needed.

Any suggestions?

miuras.

These new Sportivas are off the hook for toe hooking! Watch for a velcro model in 2012.

but seriously, maybe the Solutions. Very nice shoe...

Nick Reecy wrote: I'm looking for shoe that would be used for vertical and/or slab problems.

Are we talking about bouldering???

Anasazis or Pontas should be fine till you start climbing V7+.

Rob Gordon wrote:Anasazis or Pontas should be fine till you start climbing V7+.

+1/2 (the second half)

The shoes would be used only for bouldering.

I already own a pair of miura vs, they're awesome but they didn't smear that comfortably until they were really broke in. But who knows, I might just decide to buy a new pair again.

I also own a pair of scarpa boosters, the solution seems nice but I'm not really looking for another shoe that is that aggressive.

I've been looking at the five ten's anasazi vcs as it seems like it would probably fit my needs. Anyone used these bouldering? Did they work okay?

Yes they are one of the most popular shoes around for a reason, hence my suggesting them. If you can't climb something in Anasazis, you probably just can't climb it. If you really want to shell out the dough, the Arrowheads are even better.

Is this a joke

SOLUTION!

And while they are downturned I go slab climbing in them just the same. Best technical shoe on the market hands down.

But really what matters is how the shoe fits, if Solutions do not fit well move on, try the Dragons...

Any shoe that fits well will make you very happy.

Arrowhead huh, I noticed it's a bit more downturned...does it still smear well? Do you by chance know if its as aggressive as the miura vs?

My feet only really like 5.10 and Evolv cause of their shape, so I can't compare, but... I don't consider them that aggressive. You feel it in your arch a little if you have flat feet like me, but they break in super well.

I don't think any tight fitting bouldering shoe smears that great, but the Arrowhead seems to be made out of a more flexible material than a lot of shoes, so while it is downturned, you can also straighten them out to smear pretty well once they are broken in. The rubber seems really durable and is very sticky. I really can't say enough things good about them. The only drawback I've seen so far is the material on top is not as durable as the old material (i'm just assuming this is a new material based on anecdotal evidence) so be careful on toe scums, I wore a small hole in mine without noticing.

But in all honesty, unless you are rich, the Anasazi is a great shoe that does 90+ percent of what the Arrowhead does and you can get it cheaper. (i recommend trying either on to make sure you like the 5.10 fit).

Rob Gordon wrote:Anasazis or Pontas should be fine till you start climbing V7+.

+1

There's really no need for a "high performance shoe" until you're bouldering or climbing extremely hard grades. Pontas are the best all around shoe I've ever climbed in, be it lace up or velcro. I don't think people who climb with LS solutions or miura VS or other high performance shoes are really helping themselves at all. The only reason I have a HP shoe (I wear the 5.10 V10, it's my only shoe now) is because i bought it for $40.

Isn't the anasazi/pontas a "high performance shoe"?

Nonetheless, I welcome anything that can aid my performance when I'm climbing at my limit regardless of the grade.

Nick Reecy wrote:Isn't the anasazi/pontas a "high performance shoe"? Nonetheless, I welcome anything that can aid my performance when I'm climbing at my limit regardless of the grade.

Not really. It's more of an all around shoe.

You just helped prove my point though. So many people have in mind that these amazing shoes are helping their climbing out by a lot. When in reality, at the lower grades they are barely better than a pair of Defys, and sometimes they offer no difference at all. It's not really until the mid to harder grades (I'd say somewhere around V7-8 range) that the shoe you wear actually makes the difference between sending and not sending. Someone may argue with me, but I've climbed in quite a few brands of shoes, from the beginner Evolv Defys, to all around Pontas and 5.10 Mocs and LS Miuras (lace up), to some of the highest performance shoes on the market, 5.10 Dragons and V10s. Thinking that shoes will make the difference in a send or not at the lower levels is ridiculuous. I did my hardest send (in the lower middle range of grades, it was an easy V7) in a pair of Mocs. I went back a month later after getting my V10s and sent it again. Hardly a difference.

For clarification, I'm specifically talking bouldering here. The difference of crack climbing vs face climbing vs slab vs whatever other type of climbing and each shoe's usefulness is another matter in that respect.

That's a good point.

But what may be true for you may not be true for me. If I believe something can help me, than I might benefit from that belief alone, regardless of whether it is physically aiding me...a placebo effect if you know what I'm talking about. :)

Thanks for the help everybody...I think I'm gonna try the anasazi.