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Spearhead this week?

Original Post
April23 · · Boulder · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

I'm thinking of climbing North Ridge on Spearhead (weather permitting) wednesday and was wondering if anyone knows what the conditions are like. I'm fairly new to alpine climbing.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

I was hoping to do either the flying buttress spearhead or petit grepon on Wednesday.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Lots of snow on all of the alpine approaches in the Park from what I hear. My friend did the Petit a few weeks ago. If you are willing to do the slog, then it will be worth it as you won't have the usual crowds.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

How long of a slog are we talking

Top Rope Hero · · Was Estes Park, now homeless · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,150

Sorry, folks...

Official report from Kristen Moody, who handles special permits for the park says that anything above 10 is still deep, wet, and sloggish. Particularly the east side of the park.

Lumpy is still lookin' good at this point...

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

Kristen might not know everything....

Joe on the crux of the barb(10-) 7-4-11

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

Phil, sssshhhh.

Also, glad to see you got out on your days off.

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098
Adam on ATO.

On 4th pitch of All Two Obvious (July 3, 2011).

The approach is snowy but doable.
justin dubois · · Estes Park · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 525

bring a change of socks, and give 'er! the snow can in fact help out quite a bit this time of year. As in making the descents easier! That being said, this is THE snowiest summer I have seen in 10 years of living up here.

rickpat · · Boulder, Co · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 10

How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

Indeed, a permit is needed to bivy in the Park... at least legally.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
rickpat wrote:How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!
It's a long hike, past black lake. And yes on the bivy. IMO you should bivy legally and support the park. It's an easy process.
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

Do you need to reserve a bivy permit or can you get one on your way into the park?

David HH · · CR, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 1,695
rickpat wrote:How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!
Just did the barb yesterday. Did the hike in with only tennis shoes and it was fine much of the snow has melted out there is just a little bit left on trail up from Black Lake to Spearhead but boots are not required. Route is perfectly dry and in great shape. Have fun!
David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410
Wehling wrote:Do you need to reserve a bivy permit or can you get one on your way into the park?
Usually you don't need to reserve one, I've always gotten the one I wanted when the day of. The only problem is either way you have to go in person to the main office outside of estes during normal business hours. This is a super pain if you want to bivy at the diamond on a Friday night after work, since you have to drive further than the Long's trailhead and make it there before they close.
rickpat · · Boulder, Co · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 10

Thanks everyone for the input. I'll let you know how it goes!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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