Wire Brushes

I have been noticing people using wire brushes to clean classic boulder problems around the front range. What gives? I always thought this was bad form. Well it was one specific day at the Satellites that I noticed someone brushing turning point with a wire brush. He definitely wasn't brushing it aggressively but still over time this has to be harmful.

I did not say anything at the time but mentioned it to the people I was climbing with. Everyone in our group agreed that this was bad form and before my buddy could go up and say something the party had moved on.

What do you guys think? Has anyone had similar interactions. I understand if you are cleaning something for an FA you might use a wire brush but how can you be working a V9 and not understand that the use of a wire brush over time will ruin this problem for future generations.

JJNS wrote:but how can you be working a V9 and not understand that the use of a wire brush over time will ruin this problem for future generations.

Ah, the quest for the FFA of a bouldering route. The Final Free Ascent. Its quite coveted these days.

/sarcasm

There really is no reason unless the route is covered in lichen, heavy moss etc. If it's a classic then its most likely perfectly clean sans chalk, in which case a toothbrush or similar fiber hair brush is all thats needed.

A write brush should never be used after the FA.

I only use wire on plastic holds in gym. Nylon brush at the most outdoors on rocks.

That is dumb, guess I would've said something, but at the same time I don't give a fuck about the satellites and I don't find the Taxing Point to be all that classic. But yeah, that is whack, just use a toothbrush.

Nylon for established classics.
Crowbars, hammer and chisel, Roundup, sandblasting and stainless steel brushes for the FA on many lines.
I used to prefer the Nobel-Sysco 2840 broiler brush (restaurant grade),but they are hard to find these days.
The Wooster can't be beat to sculpt a potential line down to the problem one envisions, like Michelangelo seeing the finished masterpiece within a slab of mable.

Tom Hanson wrote:Nylon for established classics. Crowbars, hammer and chisel, Roundup, sandblasting and stainless steel brushes for the FA on many lines. I used to prefer the Nobel-Sysco 2840 broiler brush (restaurant grade),but they are hard to find these days. The Wooster can't be beat to sculpt a potential line down to the problem one envisions, like Michelangelo seeing the finished masterpiece within a slab of mable.

+1

Last summer I had a similar experience while bouldering on Flagstaff mountain. I was at the Red Wall boulder when a group of guys came up, dropped their pads, cranked up their boom box and broke out the wire brush. One of them started scrubbing a hold on the classic Varne route. I left without saying anything, mostly because the music annoyed me, but then thought later I should have said something about the brush. Next time I will. Sandstone is soft and wire brushes on established problems is not cool.

Brausch (with caution and Boar's hair Lapis brush), then CRAUSCH!!!!

wildernessexchangeunlimited…

Woodchuck ATC wrote:I only use wire on plastic holds in gym. Nylon brush at the most outdoors on rocks.

Wire brushes destroy plastic gym holds just like they destroy holds outside. Please stop doing this!

my wire brush ain't hurtin' the holds in my gym bra, i'm gonna keep on keepin' on,. That chalk has to get off of those holds some how. i don't like a greazy hold. As fart as outside, i'm with woodchuck on this, only nylon soft bristle for me though. Don't wanna eff up my proj. you dig cuz.

Curt Hokanson wrote:Brausch (with caution and Boar's hair Lapis brush), then CRAUSCH!!!! wildernessexchangeunlimited…

lapis is the only brausch!!! wire brushes are for sissies who can't crausch!!!

theartofshaving.com/shop/sh… You pansies can use a damn tooth brush all day if you want. But, this is what i use, 3rd. one on the right. She sure is a beaut. never damages the rock either. Boar hair is to damn coarse for me. I only use Badger. Forgot how to make the link clicky.

mitchy wrote:http://www.theartofshaving.com/shop/shaving-brushes You pansies can use a damn tooth brush all day if you want. But, this is what i use, 3rd. one on the right. She sure is a beaut. never damages the rock either. Boar hair is to damn coarse for me. I only use Badger. Forgot how to make the link clicky.

Haha...seriously? Im sure this a joke right? Idfk!!

Bucket Head wrote:Last summer I had a similar experience while bouldering on Flagstaff mountain. I was at the Red Wall boulder when a group of guys came up, dropped their pads, cranked up their boom box and broke out the wire brush. One of them started scrubbing a hold on the classic Varne route. I left without saying anything, mostly because the music annoyed me, but then thought later I should have said something about the brush. Next time I will. Sandstone is soft and wire brushes on established problems is not cool.

Man that is some bullshit, sounds like your ass got taxed hardcore. Oh well, only more stuff like this is gonna happen in the future, just got let people know when they're habitual line-steppers I guess.