Gunks routes similar to "P2" of Son of Easy O

I really love this type of climbing.. steep roof with good holds and gear. I'm wondering if there are similar routes in the trapps or nears similar to this? I've been told Pink Laurel might be. And i know that the top of Classic and Jackie are but only in short sections.

Ideas?

Strictly from Nowhere is almost identical to P2 of Son of Easy O.

ooo ya. I've done that too.. though i haven't done P2 yet.

anything with a longer section?

P2 of Modern Times...though not as sustained as Son of Easy O it's a bit spicier mentally hence the + on the rating.

The second pitch of Fat City Direct.

Aren't half the Gunks routes are like that (especially those pitches from GT Ledge)? Or are you looking for something very specific?

I think P3 of Anguish is very much like Son of Easy O except you are going from right to left. P2 variation of Bloody Bush. Arch Direct (Wicked Banana). Dry Heaves, Alley Oop and Cakewalk? Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof?

Not quite as roof-y but certainly steep and certainly long, Double Crack never feels just casual to me.

Bonnies Roof is more of a corner, but also full value. For the best option finish out right up the 9+ finger crack through two roofs.

One that doesnt get done too often might be the second pitch of Main Line down at the end of the nears.

divnamite wrote:Aren't half the Gunks routes are like that (especially those pitches from GT Ledge)? Or are you looking for something very specific? I think P3 of Anguish is very much like Son of Easy O except you are going from right to left. P2 variation of Bloody Bush. Arch Direct (Wicked Banana). Dry Heaves, Alley Oop and Cakewalk? Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof?

A lot of them are yea.. I disagree about bonnies and Ants line. those are nothing like it.

just looking for ideas. Sometimes it gets a bit mind numbing to scroll through or flip through the book.

Though a few grades harder, I felt feast of fools had a similar feel to it, though not quite as "exposed"

Agree with bonnies roof if you do the 5.9 finish! it's all jugs :D

I can picture routes, i'm just blanking on names...

Oh: the last little bit of le teton, while not a roof, is fairly steep jug bashing.. it's just too short and getting to the base of that pitch is the pits

I wanted to do bonnies direct this weekend but at least some of bonnies was wet :( boooo

TR'd feast of fools this weekend. first roof was fun.. the 2nd roof was harder than it looked.

it was silly easy but P2 of Gelsa was like this and really really fun.

Some of the best sustained steep and juggy (that I can remember) in the Trapps:

Hawk 5.6
Madame G's 5.6
Peregrine 5.7
Son of Easy O 5.8
Modern Times 5.8+
Bonnie's Roof 5.9
The Dangler 5.10-
Beatle Brow Bulge 5.10-

BBB is like a 10 foot roof, and all jugs. Yay Gunks!

GO

Dominic Albanese wrote: One that doesnt get done too often might be the second pitch of Main Line down at the end of the nears.

Mainline gear is a bit tricky and also the roof is not very straightforward, very sequencey.

eric larson wrote:Oh: the last little bit of le teton, while not a roof, is fairly steep jug bashing.. it's just too short and getting to the base of that pitch is the pits

Eric and others, you should try the direct variation of Le Teton for more sustained climbing as described here (10a face could be easily avoided by escaping to Mr. P jugs or just stemming up the corner): mountainproject.com/v/teton…

I like the roof on P1 of Broken Sling, for easier jug hauls try P2 of Drunkard's, P3 of Yellow Ridge and P2 of Columbia.

Le Teton is the one that comes to mind for me. Double Crack is very sustained and harder than SOEO in my opinion (but not really a roof). The roof on Ape Call is awesome, P1 is doable but scary. Blackout and Commando Rave also have fun roofs.

Nice.. thanks for all of the ideas. It'll be a few weeks before I can get back down there but I can look at these routes online and in the book now to see what I want to get on.

Jake D. wrote:I wanted to do bonnies direct this weekend but at least some of bonnies was wet :( boooo TR'd feast of fools this weekend. first roof was fun.. the 2nd roof was harder than it looked. it was silly easy but P2 of Gelsa was like this and really really fun.

a little further drive, but worth it!

mountainproject.com/v/dopey…

Tom Fralich wrote:Le Teton is the one that comes to mind for me. Double Crack is very sustained and harder than SOEO in my opinion (but not really a roof). The roof on Ape Call is awesome, P1 is doable but scary. Blackout and Commando Rave also have fun roofs.

A second vote for the Blackout. That route is a serious hidden gem.