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Friction knots over webbing?

Original Post
Joel A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 155

I'm fairly new to the sport. My friend and I do a lot of TR and when I'm equalizing the master point I often use a prusik on my static line when I'm working really close/over the edge of the cliff.

My friend just got her own setup and she's using webbing instead of static. I searched on this, but couldn't find anything regarding friction knots on webbing. Are they still legit on webbing?

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

Yep, we use them for SAR litter tie in's. 6mm or 7mm cord on 1 inch tubular webbing works for a SINGLE person load

Joel A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 155

Cool, thanks. I suspected it was ok for one person but at this point I don't take anything for granted.

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50

Klemheist for webbing

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

To my surprise, the prusik hitch using cord actually does work well on tubular. I would not have gone that way in my thinking and kept to the mindset of cord on cord; or do the klemheist sling on the rope. But, the cord to the tubular does work so long as the webbing isn't knicked or cut in some way; but, you could say that for any application of webbing.

I still favor cord on cord, though.

Chase Roskos · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 90

Just a friendly reminder, be sure to always test your friction hitches before weighting them. You don't want to find you didn't put in enough wraps after you're over the edge.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
Topher42 wrote:Klemheist for webbing
For clarification, I believe Topher is talking about using a Kleimheist when tying a friction hitch WITH webbing/slings around rope, not visa versa.

I don't see any problem tying a kleimheist with cord around webbing, but generally if you are using a sling to tie some sort of friction hitch, the kleimheist is the hitch of choice.
Joel A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 155

Interesting. Since my post I've also asked a couple experienced climbers around here whose opinions I value, and they were both suspicious of cord over webbing.

But then folks like Wehling are using them routinely for rescue work, so maybe the lack of consensus is a question of it not being a very common application. I.e., people who are using it know it's good, but it's not used that extensively so other folks might not know offhand if it's good, and distrust it as a matter of caution.

Anyway, for now I might just use a self-equalizing setup on my friend's webbing and therefore bypass the need to be working near the edge.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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