SUGGESTIONS PLEASE! for RMNP alpine climb tomorrow

So I have this urge to do an alpine climb, which isn't something I've really done before. I can lead comfortably on trad in the low 10's and do a lot of long solos up to 5.8, so I figure I should shoot for an 8 or so if it's a roped alpine climb. I have a willing partner for tomorrow, and these are the routes I'm considering (all in RMNP):
-North Ridge of Spearhead
-Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth
-solo the East Gully of Sharkstooth
-South Face of Petit Grepon

I'm wondering which (or if any) will be relatively snow free & reasonable right now, I don't really know RMNP that well so I'm not sure what conditions to expect at all. Anyone have suggestions on which might be best, or other routes to consider?

Thanks for your help!

bump - i could really use some input today :)

Have you ever done any climbing at Lumpy Ridge near Estes? It has an alpine feel and is a great place to get ready for bigger objectives. It is also dry right now.

The conditions in the park are still pretty wet and a 5.8 route could be quite a bit more difficult right now. Since this is your first climb in the park I'd suggest getting on one of the routes you mentioned in two weeks when conditions are much more "normal".

David Appelhans wrote:Have you ever done any climbing at Lumpy Ridge near Estes? It has an alpine feel and is a great place to get ready for bigger objectives. It is also dry right now. The conditions in the park are still pretty wet and a 5.8 route could be quite a bit more difficult right now. Since this is your first climb in the park I'd suggest getting on one of the routes you mentioned in two weeks when conditions are much more "normal".

I don't have much experience climbing at Lumpy (I climbed there for the first time on Tuesday!) But, I wouldn't compare that type of climbing to the climbing one might encounter on one of the larger peaks...

To the OP: What's your definition of "Alpine Climbing", these days there seem to be a few diffident ways of classifying it!

The petit is your best bet. Route is dry but plenty of snow on the approach.

Sharkstooth approach will be burly and I would guess there will still be snow on route esp the gully. I don't know about spearhead.

Chris has good advice here. You might also consider a south facing route on Notchtop or the Flying Buttress on Meeker 5.9 (from the pics I have seen from the last few days, it looks like it might be ready). That hike into the "gash" for Sharkstooth can be a real bust - but it is really cool. I climbed at "The Crags" yesterday and had great weather, fantastic views, and the whole place to myself. It has kind of an alpine feel with similar rock to Hallet's. Have a great day out!

Thanks everyone for the input!

Chris (or anyone else who knows), when you say "plenty of snow" on the approach do you mean bring-ice-axe-&-crampons plenty, or just a lot of hiking on snow?

Lumpy was another thought since I (somehow) haven't climbed up there yet, so that is a definite possibility - not really alpine climbing, but maybe a good intro, at least in terms of altitude.

I haven't done the approach recently myself but my buddy Jesse just climbed it. You approach and descend to your pack so you don't have to carry up the route. His pictures are here and if you email him I bet he'll get back to you. Certainly lots of snow on the approach, not sure if an axe is necessary. If you're doing it in a day, it might be needed in the AM for piece of mind.

Jesse's Petit report

was up below sky pond Monday and there is still assloads of snow up there. Apph would suck....

Rob Kepley wrote:was up below sky pond Monday and there is still assloads of snow up there. Apph would suck....

What's apph?

Probably approach?

The sharks tooth is awesome too, just prob not where I would go tomorrow. The gash will have a lot of snow and really soft in the afternoon. Do it this summer for sure!

Oh, duh :P

Well thanks a lot for the help, I think I'll probably try and do all of the climbs I listed before summer's out!

AntinJ wrote: I don't have much experience climbing at Lumpy (I climbed there for the first time on Tuesday!) But, I wouldn't compare that type of climbing to the climbing one might encounter on one of the larger peaks...

I suggested Lumpy because the approaches are longer, the climbing is at higher altitude, and the weather is more precarious than at say, Eldo. Doing 2 routes on Sundance Buttress will make for a long day that will emulate an alpine climb. The actually style of climbing at Lumpy (flared cracks and slab) is different from what you will find in the park.

Abram, hopefully you still got out somewhere on Sunday. I'm sure you'll have a chance to do the climbs on your list later in the summer.

Yeah thanks for the suggestions, we ended up doing Kor's Flake on Sundance Buttress and it was great! :)
We had a blast, and I've got all summer to tackle some bigger objectives.
Thanks again to everyone for the input.