Route Star misleading
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Hi Mtn Prj |
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But then are you going to get on a route if it has no star because it has not had 5 people rating on it? |
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Just click the details link and see how many people have voted. Then take that into consideration. |
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You can see how many people have stared a route. Use your own judgement. Sometimes the FA over stars to attract traffic. If they are the only tick, just take it with a grain of salt... True classics will have lots and lots of votes. |
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I think if you take the star rating on any given route at face value, then, you can be misled. |
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Red wrote:Just click the details link and see how many people have voted. Then take that into consideration.My point exactly. |
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Once I'm on the route, I don't care what the star rating was. And that it encouraged me to climb something chossy doesn't bother me either. I like the current voting system. |
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I do think many people over star like crazy, particularly when they are all excited about an FA or a good ascent, but I don't think we should need 5 ratings to show. Many of the obscure routes are mediocre, but there are definitely others that may be new and unknown that are worthy of people being called attention to. I think a little reminder that pops up when you star a route to think for a minute if it really is a 4 star route would be more useful, or maybe a guide for posters of what "OK", "Good", "Great" and "Classic" mean. If I am looking at a star rating and there is only one rater, I check and see how they rate other stuff that I know. |
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M Sprague wrote:I do think many people over star like crazy, particularly when they are all excited about an FA or a good ascent, but I don't think we should need 5 ratings to show. Many of the obscure routes are mediocre, but there are definitely others that may be new and unknown that are worthy of people being called attention to. I think a little reminder that pops up when you star a route to think for a minute if it really is a 4 star route would be more useful, or maybe a guide for posters of what "OK", "Good", "Great" and "Classic" mean. If I am looking at a star rating and there is only one rater, I check and see how they rate other stuff that I know. Most routes should probably be 1 and 2 stars to be accurate. That route you are giving 4 stars: is it really even close to as good as some famous classic?Good post. I found it hard to rate things 4 stars (or in some applications 5) because my expectations used to be so high, and mostly what I climbed I felt were average climbs to begin with. Joshua Tree has thousands of routes, with the great majority of which I thought to be just "ok." |
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Have to agree with Red. |
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Adam Stackhouse wrote: Good post. I found it hard to rate things 4 stars (or in some applications 5) because my expectations used to be so high, and mostly what I climbed I felt were average climbs to begin with. Joshua Tree has thousands of routes, with the great majority of which I thought to be just "ok."I think a global scale is impossible - I just try to rate consistently by area. If I applied the same standards for a classic climb at the Gunks to a local single pitch sport crag in a former quarry, the quarry climbs would get panned. That isn't helpful to someone climbing at the quarry though. And someone who hates trad might have flipped those ratings anyway. So, as said, take them with a grain of salt and look at who rated them and how they rate other climbs you may be familiar with. Check out the description and photos if available, and try what sounds good. |
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MojoMonkey wrote: I think a global scale is impossible - I just try to rate consistently by area. If I applied the same standards for a classic climb at the Gunks to a local single pitch sport crag in a former quarry, the quarry climbs would get panned. That isn't helpful to someone climbing at the quarry though. And someone who hates trad might have flipped those ratings anyway. So, as said, take them with a grain of salt and look at who rated them and how they rate other climbs you may be familiar with. Check out the description and photos if available, and try what sounds good.Agreed |
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Like Mark said, its mostly up to you to look up who has rated it and what they seem to think of it. |
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The point is not that we don't know how to look up who rated individual climbs, everyone knows how to do this. |
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Red wrote:Just click the details link and see how many people have voted. Then take that into consideration.+1. There is also the guidebook. See how many stars they give. At a place like the Red, it seems like the author only gives out many stars to the super hard routes. It is all relative to the person giving the rating. Some people are just having more fun on the same route than another person. I like RC's 5 star rating system, it gives a little more clarity, but any more than that and most routes would probably not get full stars. I have added several routes here over the last month to a year and many of them have seen less than 3 ascents. |
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A lot of folks I know who use MP don't take the time to give stars to routes and few will change a rating. I ask them to post what they think as it gives us the consensus. But some have better things to do or don't really care that much. As a beginner I would have over starred everything as every time I got off the ground with a rope I was psyched. I did a ton of dinky little top-ropes and loved every minute of it. Now I know the difference between a one star and 4 star route. |
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Everyone seems to have it wrong! I thought that obscure routes automatically get high star ratings, and then are downgraded in quality as they become more traveled. |
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This problem seems very similar to the NetFlix prize ( It would be nice if Mtn. Proj. could offer a million dollars to come up with an algorithm! but more realistically maybe just modify their algorithm, even though it looks like it takes some serious computer power. (Maybe not including 'blends' or the 'time dependent baseline predictors' would make it simpler?) |