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Cosmic Space Dust Lazers
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 220
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Chillax S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cosmic Space Dust Lazers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dude, It's Classic! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Intimidator S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knuckle Dragger S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ledgarithm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stolen Thunder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches |
| FA: | Christian Knight and Bret Crapo |
| Page Views: | 31,362 total · 161/month |
| Shared By: | Christian Knight on Apr 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Pitch 1 (5.5): Climb straight up a low angle slab with positive edges until you reach a large ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 2 (5.7): Climb up and to the right traversing flakes and edges until you get to a small "gap" in the exposed arete that you are on. Reach across and pull up using big holds and enjoy the temporary exposure before reaching a small ledge with 2 bolts for an anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb up towards a steep but subtle prow using big holds and interesting body positioning until you pull a small bulge. Once past this bulge continue up on positive edges and pull a small roof, arriving at a large grassy ledge with 2 bolts for anchors. It is possible to skip the last roof on this pitch and traverse left to a ledge with with ring anchors and an exposed path to the walk off.
After pitch three it is possible to walk off to the north and then back down the gully.
Additional pitches established some time after the first three await above:
The added six pitches work their way up as high as the rock goes. The first four additional pitches take you up to a high ridge-line/steep meadow, and then an additional pinnacle finishes the route off with two more pitches.
Pitch 4 (5.7): Climb up and to the right, traversing blocky holds on a slightly overhanging bulge and ending on a spacious ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 5 (5.7): Climb straight off of the belay and tackle a strenuous mantle, then move up and left over nice edges to finish at a ledge with ring anchors
Pitch 6: (5.7) Climb up into a mildly overhanging corner and pull over the steep corner. Continue up slabby terrain to a ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 7 (5.4): Very short scramble up to a tiny wall with a single bolt+hanger. Kind of a mini-pitch. Walk along the ridge for awhile and then scramble to the base of the next wall.
Pitch 8 (5.7): Climb up a low angle exposed arete with an occasional bulge until you reach a small pedestal ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 9 (5.10): Climb past several small holds directly off the belay working up to a flake and bigger holds slightly left. Continue up through steep exposed bulges with smaller holds until you arrive on some ledges with ring anchors just below the summit.
Walking off to the NW towards the saddle of Trilogy Buttress and down to the West is the easiest way off of the route. However, you can rappel the entire route if you have a 70m rope.
Admin note: This description is an amalgamation of the original description of this route by Christian Knight and the description from an entry titled Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (extension) by Jason MT. The later entry was merged with this entry.
Also note that the consensus rating will be off until many more climbers put in their ratings. The ratings from the extension entry did not make it in the merge.
Pitch 2 (5.7): Climb up and to the right traversing flakes and edges until you get to a small "gap" in the exposed arete that you are on. Reach across and pull up using big holds and enjoy the temporary exposure before reaching a small ledge with 2 bolts for an anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb up towards a steep but subtle prow using big holds and interesting body positioning until you pull a small bulge. Once past this bulge continue up on positive edges and pull a small roof, arriving at a large grassy ledge with 2 bolts for anchors. It is possible to skip the last roof on this pitch and traverse left to a ledge with with ring anchors and an exposed path to the walk off.
After pitch three it is possible to walk off to the north and then back down the gully.
Additional pitches established some time after the first three await above:
The added six pitches work their way up as high as the rock goes. The first four additional pitches take you up to a high ridge-line/steep meadow, and then an additional pinnacle finishes the route off with two more pitches.
Pitch 4 (5.7): Climb up and to the right, traversing blocky holds on a slightly overhanging bulge and ending on a spacious ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 5 (5.7): Climb straight off of the belay and tackle a strenuous mantle, then move up and left over nice edges to finish at a ledge with ring anchors
Pitch 6: (5.7) Climb up into a mildly overhanging corner and pull over the steep corner. Continue up slabby terrain to a ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 7 (5.4): Very short scramble up to a tiny wall with a single bolt+hanger. Kind of a mini-pitch. Walk along the ridge for awhile and then scramble to the base of the next wall.
Pitch 8 (5.7): Climb up a low angle exposed arete with an occasional bulge until you reach a small pedestal ledge with ring anchors.
Pitch 9 (5.10): Climb past several small holds directly off the belay working up to a flake and bigger holds slightly left. Continue up through steep exposed bulges with smaller holds until you arrive on some ledges with ring anchors just below the summit.
Walking off to the NW towards the saddle of Trilogy Buttress and down to the West is the easiest way off of the route. However, you can rappel the entire route if you have a 70m rope.
Admin note: This description is an amalgamation of the original description of this route by Christian Knight and the description from an entry titled Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (extension) by Jason MT. The later entry was merged with this entry.
Also note that the consensus rating will be off until many more climbers put in their ratings. The ratings from the extension entry did not make it in the merge.
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