Mountain Project Logo

Replace PS bolt with SS in Powers 5 Piece?

Original Post
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

Has anyone ever replaced the bolt and washer in a Plated Steel powers 5 piece with a 304 SS bolt and washer? You can get those Parts for $0.80.

My gut says the metal mixing is a bad idea and will speed corrosion BUT I like the idea of the stainless bolt

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

the remaining plated parts would likely corrode at a faster rate, although how much faster it is hard to say. the stainless components would be fairly similar in size to the remaining plated parts, so the galvanic charge density wouldn't be that high. good question. probably wouldn't be the best thing, or the worst thing.

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625

If you are placing plated steel bolts PLACE plated steel hangers. Mixing types and grades of steel can promote deterioration. A stainless hanger will not indicate possible corrosion of the plated steel bolt.

source: FIXE

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

I know all about "don't mix your metals".

This is more an intellectual exercise than a move to promote some new bolting style.

My understanding of contact corrosion between stainless and zinc coated steels is that the ZINC will corrode faster depending on the contact ratio between the two metals.

Contact Corrosion between SS and PS

Reading that, I think leaving the PS bolt in and perhaps just swapping out the washer for SS would be the way to go. IF you swapped both the bolt and washer (and were using a SS hanger) you'd have a mostly SS setup and corrode the small amount of ZINC (sleve and cone) faster. Corroding the cone is what I'd worry most about since the typically corrosion you see in PS 5-Pieces is deeper in the hole.

EDIT: Re-reading that article I think you MIGHT be better off with a SS bolt and washer since a SS hanger would act as a large cathode on the small contact area with the PS bolts. Something you see around and evidenced in pictures like this:



or



Again, just DON'T MIX your metals.
Seeing that I can buy the bolt and washer in 316 SS for $0.80, it's MADDENING that the rest of a Powers 5 Piece (sleeves and cone) cost $8 or more !!
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

another option would be to go all stainless except for the washer. using a plated washer would make a small non-structural, "sacrificial" anode.

Jesse Davidson · · san diego, ca · Joined May 2007 · Points: 45

stainless powers bolts do not cost $8.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
Jesse Davidson wrote:stainless powers bolts do not cost $8.
Cheapest I've found 1/2 x 4.75 in SS Power Bolts (5-Piece) is $8.76ea NOT including shipping.

Source is widely mentioned as the cheapest around.

We're talking about soft rock bolts here. You can get ones for granite as low as $4.60 without shipping.
mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

The only place corrosion will start and bolt integrity will be diminished is at the cone. Provided you used all SS replacement parts with the exception of the cone.

You should take it upon yourself to replace the Plated junk with SS, people will praise you and the bolts won't need to be replaced for probably 80 years.

Bottom line, You would not improve the life expectancy of the placement/bolt with the method you listed in the OP.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

I don't like the idear at all. How will anyone know the whole bolt placement isn't stainless?? It'll be a ticking time bomb with no indication that its a POS.

Not a good idear, IMHO.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
mucci wrote: The only place corrosion will start and bolt integrity will be diminished is at the cone. Provided you used all SS replacement parts with the exception of the cone. You should take it upon yourself to replace the Plated junk with SS, people will praise you and the bolts won't need to be replaced for probably 80 years. Bottom line, You would not improve the life expectancy of the placement/bolt with the method you listed in the OP.
Yep. Pretty much everything I'm pulling out of the rock and have seen online indicates the CONE rots out first along with the threads. The PS ones can look great on the surface and be junk underneath. Even in "dry" areas such as TX. There are claims down here that it's "too dry" to warrant SS but nearly everything I've seen tells me "no way". When it does rain the Limestone holds the water just fine and BAM, subsurface corrosion.
Rusted Wedge Bolt
This was junk left behind. Hardware crap.

Rusted 5 piece
This bolt was in the rock for probably 5-10 years.

Nearly all my replacement work has been to use a SS Glue In. Good for a LONG while and CHEAPER than a Powers 5 Piece!
Bruce Hildenbrand · · Silicon Valley/Boulder · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 3,626

There is rust then there is corrosion. In the photos all I see is rust which is OK and probably doesn't weaken the bolt at all.

If it were a corrosion problem the bolt would look like a lot smaller in diameter and there might even be large chunks out of the metal.

Please don't confuse rust with corrosion.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Replace PS bolt with SS in Powers 5 Piece?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started