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Dean's Day Off
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 10
votes
Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff
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Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cramper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Honest Abe T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Henry Barber, Steve Shea, belayed by a young Pat Adams |
| Page Views: | 3,435 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a historically proud ascent.... Aren't all of his routes, though? It is one of the state's classic, must-do, single pitches at the grade.
Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!
With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.
I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.
Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.
The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!
Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!
With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.
I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.
Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.
The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!
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3 Comments