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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area
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Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Woman T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swollen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 980 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | scotthsu on Oct 12, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning
Details
Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
This is the most direct line up to the big juniper tree on Juniper Ledge. These are full 50 m pitches.
p1: connect obvious crack systems while negotiating considerable foliage on the way to Juniper Ledge. 2-bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper Ledge. It is probably better to choose one of the other routes that ends on Juniper Ledge, such as Chile Verde or Refritos.
p2: fun pitch; move left above a big flake and climb the dihedral/gully that passes the formidable Juniper Overhang roof on its right side. Use some stemming moves to overcome the top of the gully and finish on exposed fun climbing to the top. Build a gear anchor or trend left to use the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Bring Me a Bucket.
p1: connect obvious crack systems while negotiating considerable foliage on the way to Juniper Ledge. 2-bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper Ledge. It is probably better to choose one of the other routes that ends on Juniper Ledge, such as Chile Verde or Refritos.
p2: fun pitch; move left above a big flake and climb the dihedral/gully that passes the formidable Juniper Overhang roof on its right side. Use some stemming moves to overcome the top of the gully and finish on exposed fun climbing to the top. Build a gear anchor or trend left to use the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Bring Me a Bucket.
Location
The start (to the right of the Juniper Overhang route) is near the bottom end of a downed log below the large juniper tree on Juniper Ledge.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
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