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cammyjams
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Jun 7, 2011
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 120
Weird. Someone chopped and filled the bolts at the top of P2. What's weird to me is that the rap chains 50' away still have cold shuts on them and manky quick links. Why go up there and do all this work and leave those rap chains like that? Now P2 takes every inch of a 60m (good thing I've switched over to 70's) rope and requires a SERENE anchor under the huge block to safely belay the second. Need large pieces for that too. Just bummed when I came up to my comfy belay stance and the bots were gone.
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John Hegyes
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Jun 7, 2011
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Feb 2002
· Points: 5,681
I've climbed PG several times over the years and I'm not familiar with any bolts on top of P2. We've always built an anchor in the little cave, so I can't say I'm sorry to see the anchor bolts removed. However, I do remember that anchor being a little tricky to build, so I could see the bolts as being pretty convienent especially if the route is crowded. Now a rappel anchor, I really don't get that. We've always walked off left, no problemo.
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Doug Foust
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Jun 7, 2011
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Oroville, WA
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 165
I've climbed PG twice, once before the anchor was installed and once after. I don't recall the first time that clearly but do remember searching a bit for a good anchor spot and it being a little tricky as John H mentioned. I thought the bolted anchor wasn't a bad idea since it's an easily accessable route that gets a lot of beginner traffic and it also made sense since the first belay was bolted.
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cammyjams
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Jun 7, 2011
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 120
I've always walked off PG up and left and then down the left gully but this time I decided to check out the rap just around to the right of the block on the top. On It's a single rope drop down into the right gully. Much faster than the walk off IMHO. The bolts that were chopped while certainly not crucial to the route, provided a nice airy bench from which to coach/mock/heckle beginners coming up P2. :-) No biggy, just...odd that whomever did that didn't take the time to maintain the rap system. I need to send a few buck to the ASCA again. C.
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Larry DeAngelo
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Jun 8, 2011
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Nov 2002
· Points: 5,385
John Wilder wrote: ... the only bolts on that wall that should be there are the glue-ins on the top of the first pitch. A stickler could certainly question whether the glue-ins SHOULD be there. Admittedly, they are convenient and make for a pleasant and luxurious belay spot (with an easy bail option), but one could surely get by without them. And if they had never been placed, it seems unlikely that anyone would have installed the upper set.
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Larry DeAngelo
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Jun 8, 2011
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Nov 2002
· Points: 5,385
John Wilder wrote: agreed, but the glue-ins have been there for over 9 years ... Yeah-- I wasn't being a stickler on the anchor, just on the modal verb...
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kurthicks
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Jun 8, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 552
good riddance. let's hope they don't sprout back up.
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Nick Hamill
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Jun 9, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 65
I've climbed PG 3 or 4 times now, beginning only a couple of months ago. On my latest go, I was a bit thrown off to not see the bolts. I wandered around for a few minutes thinking that I was somehow overlooking them. I saw one bolt way off to the left, but assumed that was not intended for PG. I found a spot to make an anchor that didn't take every inch on a relatively new 60m rope. Can't remember what gear I used, but I'm pretty sure it was mostly small pieces.
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Larry DeAngelo
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Jun 11, 2011
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Nov 2002
· Points: 5,385
Killis Howard wrote:.... When I climbed Graffiti, there was a bong stuck in the crack and no anchors on top. It was a pretty fun route that way. I believe that bong was the original one placed by John Williamson when low on gear on the FA (via Grandmother's) back around 1970. I was sorry to see it go-- more like an historical artifact than booty or trash.
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