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Bikini Whale
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 43
votes
Routes in The Hidden Cliff
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Against the Grain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bikini Beach TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bikini Whale S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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G-String S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Railer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | (TR) Antoine & Marc LeMenestrel 1984, FL: Kurt Smith, December 1987 |
| Page Views: | 8,753 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located in the narrow corridor past Illusion Dweller, on the right side. The climb starts about 25 feet from the very end of the narrow corridor, where you would have to climb up to continue in that direction. Bikini Whale, Railer, Bikini Beach, and G-String all start at the same spot and share the first two bolts.
This five-bolt, overhanging, face route heads straight up the face and a seam. The powerful "lock-off" past the first bolt is considered the crux, although the pump factor makes the moves past the last (5th) bolt seem pretty hard too. Shorter climbers may want to stick-clip the first bolt, as the move getting to it is a bit reachy.
This climb is easily (and often) top roped (bring slings to extend rope over the edge).
Originally rated 5.12a, some holds have broken off and thus consensus seems to be that the route is now solid 5.12.
John Bachar (and perhaps others) soloed this route.
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