Road Trip for Beginning-Intermediate Sport Leaders

My wife and I are looking for a good sport climbing road trip around late June or early July this summer. We are looking for a good spot in the west, with some fun classic sport climbs. What we really want is a place where my wife can lead a few sub-10's, and I can get on a few classic 10's and 11's.

We had considered Rifle, because a lot of people rave on and on about it, but I've heard it's better for hard sport climbs (read 5.12 and up). We had looked at Smith Rock also, but I don't know if it is better for hard sport climbs as well. I remember a recent thread about Ten Sleep in WY, and I'm looking into that as well.

We have climbed a fair amount on quartzite, limestone, and cobbles, and I wouldn't mind trying out a different type of rock (though I thoroughly enjoy some good limestone). Any suggested areas/routes? Trip beta? Guidebooks to get? What are your favorite places to sport climb mid-summer?

There are plenty of great areas to visit, but most of them will be getting too hot by July, although maybe not the way this summers has been going.

In WY, for sure check out Ten Sleep, Wild Iris, and The Sinks although that might be too hot by then.

In CO, Clear Creek Canyon, Boulder Canyon, The Monastery (near RMNP) have plenty of easy routes, and again verging on too hot possibly, is Shelf Road, although there is plenty of shade in the afternoons.

If you're car camping,it's hard to beat the WY locations; except for Shelf, the Front Range CO spots will require a pretty hefty drive to find a campground/ legal "primitive" site.

Ten Sleep is the place, tons of quality sport routes and you get to avoid the crowds you get in Colorado.

Cole Phinney wrote:Ten Sleep is the place, tons of quality sport routes and you get to avoid the crowds you get in Colorado.

Except that most of Colorado heads to Tensleep during the summer anymore.
Tensleep is great though and well worth the trip. Just a heads up if you weren't aware, there is always a bunch of people up there for the fourth of July weekend so if you're looking for less crowds, definitely not the time to be up that way.
Since no one has said it, Smith is can be climbed in June and July but IMO really isn't ideal, it's pretty hot by then.
Have a great trip,
BA

Boulder canyon, and rifle limestone is polished but the puptent of solitude is dope as is the narrows and independence pass but as I always say
Trad is rad

What about Brain Head? I've never been there but it sounds like its at altitude and would be cooler. I think Ten Sleep is a great suggestion. I will be making my first trip there June 18th for four days. I am very excited about this trip. I climb at Shelf road quite a bit and love limestone. I've heard Ten Sleep is similar but the stone is of a much better quality. I would discourage you from going to shelf on your trip. Even though you can find shade anytime of year it will be very hot even in the shade.

You could also do a trip where you hit up multiple areas in Colorado, Rifle, Poux, Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Lime Creek, and Independence Pass. This is what I would do if I was in your shoes. This would require a little more homework on your part but it would give you an exposure to four different types of stone. That was an important focus of mine when I was learning to lead. I wanted to get on as many different types of rock as I could.

Have a great trip!

Jason

For something different check out the Rushmore area of the Black Hills. Lots of routes under 5.10 and plenty in the 10-11 range. The whole Hills area is a tourist nightmare all summer but the weather is usually pretty nice. I haven't been there in a long time but I can't imagine the climber crowds are too bad.

Devil's Head, CO sounds like what you are looking for. Over 400 sport routes(some up to 3 pitches tall) spread out over dozens of granite spires and fins. A secluded feel and gorgeous views of Pikes Peak. Heat is not usually a problem since it sits at an altitude of almost 9000'. But if it gets too hot, simply move to the shady side of the rock you're climbing. Free camping, too.

Jeff Stucker and Ben Panter.

Brent Apgar wrote: Except that most of Colorado heads to Tensleep during the summer anymore.

This is true but still far less crowded than Eldo, BC, Rifle, Shelf, Clear Creek, Splatte etc.. And also the "crowds" on the 4th, yes there is a signifigantly larger number of people visiting during this time, but, thankfully Ten Sleep has enough rock that I have yet to run into more than two parties at a crag (my own experience I am sure others have had worse).
+1 for Ten Sleep.

City of Rocks. It's a relatively short drive from where you are and though it may be hot in July it is still climbable and not crowded. Climb early in the morning when there is shade, nap in the afternoon and then get in a few more pitches iin the evening.
One of the best places for routes in the 5.9-5.11 range. Wild iris is good as is devil's tower and the needles.

City of Rocks. It's a relatively short drive from where you are and though it may be hot in July it is still climbable and not crowded. Climb early in the morning when there is shade, nap in the afternoon and then get in a few more pitches iin the evening.
One of the best places for routes in the 5.9-5.11 range. Wild iris is good as is devil's tower and the needles.

City of Rocks. It's a relatively short drive from where you are and though it may be hot in July it is still climbable and not crowded. Climb early in the morning when there is shade, nap in the afternoon and then get in a few more pitches iin the evening.
One of the best places for routes in the 5.9-5.11 range. Wild iris is good as is devil's tower and the needles.

I mostly agree with Dave B on this one. However, might want to reconsider the Clear Creek and Boulder Canyon suggestion unless you are hell bent on staying in Boulder or Golden. Those areas have great climbing but not as fun to camp at with your wife.

I think City of Rocks in southern Idaho and Maple Canyon in Utah offer really fun moderate climbing in a great setting with good camping. Both places are at a higher elevation and so the temperatures are good in the shade. The sport climbing at Maple is very athletic and steep but there are a lot of moderates that are super fun. The grading is really soft so don't be scared of the 5.11's. NOTE: the coble stone rock at Maple takes some getting used to.

Haven't been to Ten Sleep but it looks fantastic.

Lander area: Wild Iris has enough to keep you busy for a couple of days (fun climbing, not too many people, good times every visit I've been there), free camping and ~20 minutes from Lander. Sinks Canyon routes seemed a little more polished than Wild Iris. Shit load of bees/wasps both times I've climbed there. There is free camping in Lander City Park and Cowfish/Gannett Grill has good food and beer. Bechtel's "Lander Sport Climbs" covers both areas

Rushmore is a blast, some of my favorite sport routes there and generally not too many climbers. Free camping is a bit of a problem and definitely avoid going during Sturgis (August 2 - 17). I've used Phinney's Rushmore guide, seemed pretty good but there may be something more recent.

Visited Devil's Head for the first time last weekend and will certainly visit again. It was cold and we only did a handful of easy routes but the rock is good quality and the routes fun. Plenty of free camping but be prepared for every dirt-biker and off-roader in the Springs to be tearing along Rampart Range Road. Tod Anderson's "Rampart Range Rocks" is the most recent guide. There are other sport crags in the Front Range if you tire of Devil's Head.

We will for sure be climbing at Maple Canyon this summer. At just over 7,000 ft, and plenty of shade it is great. It's just over an hour away, so that's nice. We'll be taking our first trip to City of Rocks in early June, so I'm excited about that.

I like that Devil's Head is at 9,000 ft. We'll be going to Colorado a few times. I need to do some more 14ers this summer anyway. How crowded does Devil's Head get in the summer?

Anyone know when are the Uintah's climbable? I know that's high altitude, but how early can I get up there?

Ken Clark wrote: I like that Devil's Head is at 9,000 ft. We'll be going to Colorado a few times. I need to do some more 14ers this summer anyway. How crowded does Devil's Head get in the summer??

No crowds, except for The Jungle and Training Ground sometimes. If you run into a crowd, just stroll on over to the next crag over. The annual Sympathy for the Devil festival in September is the busiest weekend of the year. Even on that weekend you are still able to have a crag all to yourself.

Tom R wrote: No crowds, except for The Jungle and Training Ground sometimes. If you run into a crowd, just stroll on over to the next crag over. The annual Sympathy for the Devil festival in September is the busiest weekend of the year. Even on that weekend you are still able to have a crag all to yourself.

Unless we don't quit spraying all over MP what its like out there.
FYI - the hanging buttcrack in the upper left of the picture is waiting for its FFA by some offwidth sicko, although Tod got in a route on the red face next to it.