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Sheridan Climbing

Original Post
Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 410

Is there any good climbing near Sheridan, Wyoming?

Cole Phinney · · Astoria OR · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 50

Piney Creek (shade and sport routes) 15 minutes away, Tongue River Canyon (trad and sport) 20 minutes, Little Tongue (trad, sport, tr'ing, I have yet to get to this area but my friends and the developers all think it is great)about 45 min. Ten Sleep (best sport climbing in the world) 2 hours away, Devil's Tower (multi-pitch) 2 hours. There is also a whole world of Alpine climing in the cloud Peak Wilderness. There is tons of great climbing in the area and still a lifetime of FA's to be done, unfortunatly, the beta is somewhat limited (there is a guidebook by Trevor Bowmen but it isn't worth the money), Ten Sleep and the other areas all have good beta. Also I am heading up there for the summer today so feel free to shoot me an email and will be glad to try and point you in the right direction.
Enjoy the Wyoming Awesomeness,
Cole Phinney

Trevor Bowman · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 7,579

Tombo,
There is a lot of great climbing in the Eastern Bighorns around the Sheridan and Buffalo Areas! No mind-blowing destinations mind you, but plenty of quiet and scenic climbs of good quality.
Tongue River Canyon is the largest crag and offers over 100 documented routes on Bighorn Dolomite--trad and sport, 5.6-5.12.
Piney Creek Canyon is smaller in scope, but quite nice and cool on summer evenings--35 routes or so, again Bighorn Dolomite, mostly sport in the 5.9-5.12 range.
Steamboat Point is a great nearly year-round crag, again dolomite, with around 50 routes, mostly sport, 5.5-5.12+.
Dome Rock is a nice granite crag at 9500' with around 40 routes from 5.5-5.11+, mostly trad, nice summer crag with awesome views.
Lamburger Rock is a 400' wall of banded gneiss you can damn near drive to the base of with many multi-pitch trad lines and some hard sport.
Crazy Woman Canyon and Crags offer more dolomite sport (some trad) outside of Buffalo, with many excellent routes in the 5.10-5.13 range, the Crags are nice in the summer and have very short approaches.
These are the best known crags of the area and should provide lots of great days out. I'm sorry that Cole didn't feel the guidebook (Rock Climbs of the Eastern Big Horns) was worth the money...I certainly feel that it's worth the money, since I know just how much money (not to mention time and effort) went into the publication, but I have an obvious bias in the matter. Everyone else I've gotten feedback from has been very stoked with the guide, including several guys who've actually climbed around here a good bit. I've moved a couple hundred copies locally within the first year and seen quite a few new faces at the crags recently, which is a great sign! The guide covers 10 different crags with nearly 350 routes and retails for $25, so around 7 cents a route... If you pass through the area, I encourage you to flip through a copy at one of the local shops and decide for yourself. I'm not posting this to sell guidebooks, merely defending its merit since it is the primary source of info for the area and I certainly didn't create it with the intent of making money but to get people out on the crags!
If you're just in the area for a day or two and don't want to buy the guide, the section for Piney Creek I posted on this site is pretty comprehensive and includes 10 or so new routes from last summer.
And finally, if in the area, make sure to check out Tensleep and the Tower, both world-class destinations for sure and quite close!
Cheers and hope to see you up here someday!
Trevor

schmitie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

I'm not going to be helpful, but along the same lines does anyone have any experience with any alpine lines in/around Cloud Peak? Seen a bunch of photos on summitporn and seems mighty interesting...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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