Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 19,720 total · 73/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Quintessential Lumpy slab climbing. Hike up to the Bookend (not to be confused with any other cliff involving the name Book), and starting from the southeast corner of that rock, scramble up slabs and grooves up past the obvious large triangular roof of Orange Julius, to a higher alcove. Keep a lookout on the approach for the route's landmark, a clean, narrow slab with a green streak on the right side of the [Bookend]-- the alcove lies below it, though once you are in it you can't see the slab.

P1 - Climb up the left side of the alcove, turn the corner to the left and climb a right facing corner with a hand crack in the back. Turn the roof capping the corner (bolt) and climb up the slab past two more bolts (crux) to a two bolt anchor (110 feet).

P2 - Head straight up the phenomenal slab past six bolts (5.9) to lower angle ground where one can belay from medium friends (25 feet to the first bolt) (160 feet).

P3 - Finish the climb up easy cracks and grooves to the left, and descend from the top of the [Bookend] to the northeast (160 feet).

Protection Suggest change

The meat of the route is bolted, and only a set of Friends is necessary for the rest.

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