Mount Conness Descent

I am considering climbing the West Ridge of Mount Conness in July. What is the standard descent for this peak(other than just down-climbing the route)?

No offense, but it sounds like you haven't read the guidebook. No one down climbs the route. You either take the class 2 trail back to the Institute or the class 3 ridge past Alpine Lake if I remember the name correctly. We never could find an obvious way to connect with the class 3, which is more direct, but the class 2 is very pretty and a fun way to bag the peak by itself.

Have fun. Make sure you have the approach down. It's more critical than the descent.

If you're soloing, it makes the most sense to downclimb the north ridge, since the north ridge cruxes are downclimbs, so reversing the north ridge makes the cruxes upclimbs. Also hiking downhill sucks.

But if you're pitching it out, I'd just go for the normal hike down. Follow the trail.

Tico wrote:If you're soloing, it makes the most sense to downclimb the north ridge, since the north ridge cruxes are downclimbs, so reversing the north ridge makes the cruxes upclimbs.

I don't see how this makes alot of sense. 99% of the people climbing this route approach from the Sawmill area. If you downclimb the N. Ridge, you've got to hike out by Conness Lakes then hike around Saddlebag Lake to get back anywhere near where you started. Plus, you'll still have a lot of downhill hiking anyways, not to mention the tedious 3 mile hike around the lake; and you won't be able to catch the boat because you wouldn't have bought a return ticket from the resort at the opposite end. If you descent the usual way, you end up where you started.

Just listen to what Fatty has to say- it's spot on. Enjoy the West Ridge. It is a spectacular climb.

Fat Dad wrote: I don't see how this makes alot of sense. 99% of the people climbing this route approach from the Sawmill area. If you downclimb the N. Ridge, you've got to hike out by Conness Lakes then hike around Saddlebag Lake to get back anywhere near where you started. Plus, you'll still have a lot of downhill hiking anyways, not to mention the tedious 3 mile hike around the lake; and you won't be able to catch the boat because you wouldn't have bought a return ticket from the resort at the opposite end. If you descent the usual way, you end up where you started.

It's more climbing, so more fun. Makes sense to me. And you don't have to walk back past things you've already seen. You don't "got" to walk by Conness and saddlebag lakes, you "get" to. And if you think the walk around the lake is tedious, you're far too jaded to be giving advise to young climbers.

I haven't purchased the guidebook because I'm a cheap bastard(actually, a poor college student) and this is the only climb we plan to do in the area this summer. I do, however, have a map. We plan on approaching from Young Lakes. Thanks for the info guys.

Tico wrote:If you're soloing, it makes the most sense to downclimb the north ridge, since the north ridge cruxes are downclimbs, so reversing the north ridge makes the cruxes upclimbs. Also hiking downhill sucks. But if you're pitching it out, I'd just go for the normal hike down. Follow the trail.

What most have said is great advice.
I did the West Ridge and down climbed the North Ridge. It was a great day with a good amount of time spent on the rock. IMO, If you can move fast enough this is probably the best way to go, sorry Fat Dad. You may also be able to hitch a ride down the road once you reach it.

The more important thing is the approach, I got lost the first time out and spent about 5-6 hours hiking around and got no climbing in. It is at least worth looking at the Super Topo book for approach info and pictures.

Tico wrote: And if you think the walk around the lake is tedious, you're far too jaded to be giving advise to young climbers.

I agree with Fat Dad...the walk around the lake is tedious. Sorry, man.

It seems the OP plans to approach from Young Lakes, so all of the prior info isn't that helpful. I climbed the West Ridge from Young Lakes two seasons ago. The descent is pretty obvious from the topo map. Follow the usual path down to the plateau but then break off right and down the obvious valley, paralleling a stream, past a cool swampy area and back to the campsites.