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**Looking for current beta-conditions of gothics mountain north face***

Original Post
Pablo-Roberts · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,165

Does any one have any current condition reports on the north face of the gothics? how over grown are the trad routes on it? I've heard its pretty overgrown but nothing more current than 2007.

Also would be interested in south face conditions. and stories if any one has attempted any routes on either face. thank you

Tom D · · New York · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

This would also be helpful information for me as well.
I have been eye balling the north face for some time.
From what i have heard and can see it looks pretty over grown. My guess is to bring a brush. I think the cracks are going to need cleaning before they can accept gear.
If you climb it before I do post an update. I'm thinking of making my ascent in September.

aviarome · · Yarmouth, ME · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

I've only climbed it in the winter, so I don't know what it looks like under the ice, but this is a report from 2009 where the hikers kind of bailed and hugged the treeline. There is a link with pics showing the face pretty well. I don't think it would have changed dramatically within the last 1 1/2 years since those pics.

adkhighpeaks.com/forums/sho…

There was trip report last fall of someone climbing the north face with good pics which they did as a scouting trip for skiing down it, but I can't find it right now.

Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440

Just remember, the DEC Rangers in the High Peaks are not forgiving, and their primary concern is the safety of their personnel.

Accident Report from this winter involving Climbers in the Trap Dyke.

Town of Keene, High Peaks Wilderness

On Saturday, February 19, at 6:36 pm DEC Dispatch in Ray Brook received a short phone call in which the dispatcher heard noise but no voice before the call was disconnected. Moments later another similar call was received. The dispatcher dialed *69 and obtained a cell phone which she called, this time a voice was heard but not clearly. After a number of attempts by both parties a clear signal was obtained and the dispatcher was able to learn that Kent Stephens, 40, of Broadview Heights, OH; Justin Parks, 27, Cleveland, OH; and Calin Pop, 28, of Lakewood, OH were stuck in the Trap Dyke on the side Mt. Colden in the High Peaks Wilderness. The three men had left from the Adirondack Loj trailhead around noon to climb the Trap Dyke and summit Mt. Colden. Darkness, single digit temperatures, winds and exhaustion overtook them and they could no longer proceed. The call was transferred to a DEC Forest Ranger who explained to the three climbers that, due to the winds, a helicopter was not able to fly and their only options were to climb up or climb down. After convincing the three men to begin climbing down, the forest ranger and a second forest ranger used snowmobiles to travel to Avalanche Lake. The DEC Interior Caretaker at Lake Colden was dispatched to the base of the Trap Dyke to get visual contact on the climbers. The forest rangers arrived at 10:09 pm expecting to find the climbers at the base of Trap Dyke. However, the men had descended to the top of an ice/waterfall and stopped there. The forest rangers, using ice climbing gear, ascended to the base of the ice/waterfall and instructed the men on how to rappel down. The group then descended to the base of the Trap Dyke and onto Avalanche Lake at 12:48 am. Forest Rangers transported the three men by snowmobile to the Adirondack Loj parking lot. All parties were out of the woods at 2:22 am. Know your abilities and the conditions you will be facing. Start long distance and technically challenging backcountry trips early – especially in the winter.

So, if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't be trying it. Gothics is a stiff 6 miles from nowhere and no thought of cell service.

Alpinisto · · Connecticut · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 30
Paul U Roberts wrote:Does any one have any current condition reports on the north face of the gothics? how over grown are the trad routes on it? I've heard its pretty overgrown but nothing more current than 2007. Also would be interested in south face conditions. and stories if any one has attempted any routes on either face. thank you
Typically, the North Face is climbed in winter and the South Face has summer trad routes.

That said, blackfly season is just about to start up in the ADKs, so plan accordingly. ;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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