Trinity Alps Climbing

Just wondering if anyone has done any climbing in the Trinity Alps... I'm not talking about the Aretes. I know there is good climbing there... But it seems like the Alps are relatively unexplored.

Anyone done any trad up there?

There are many trad routes in the Alps. Beta has been kept to word of mouth. Those that climb there regularly want to maintain the adventurous nature.

Yes, lots of trad established in the late eighties by Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi, and myself. Incredible granite on par with Yosemite high country.

As an example, try Stonehouse Pinnacle -Stonehouse Dihedral...
Done in 1969 by Frank Jagh and Bruce Price.
Located on the prominent formation just left of Lower Canyon Creek Lake.
9 pitches, nice granite.
Follow the dihedral more or less the whole way.
III, 5.8, A-2 was their rating BITD; we freed it and thought it about .10b/c in 1988.

Rick Shull wrote: Those that climb there regularly want to maintain the adventurous nature.

Translation:

I don't want to share with anyone else. Cute.

I'm not saying that I haven't done the same (i.e. not posted routes because of concern over crowds), but let's call it like it is....I'm being kind of a selfish dick for refusing to share info with others. Saying that you are "maintaining the sense of adventure" is a cop out.

i second that....i live in eureka and i would also like alittle more beta on this place.....

i find it funny that there are really good climbers here, but no good climbing????WTF???

this is the lost coast.....if people wanna come here to climb you should tell them where.....its only gonna do the economy here good...WE NEED MONEY!!!

that is all.....maybe

Personally, I just don't know enough about the routes to post accurate beta.

Jon,
I would suggest stopping by Far North Climbing gym in Arcata on a Wednesday night. A number of climbers that hang out there on Wednesdays will most likely share all that you need to know and probably invite you along on the next trip. There are a lot of good climbers in the Eureka/Arcata area. Have you been out to the limestone areas or Land of the Lost? I would consider many of the routes at the aretes, Cecilville and Marble Caves to be "good climbing".

Rick Shull wrote:Personally, I just don't know enough about the routes to post accurate beta. Jon, I would suggest stopping by Far North Climbing gym in Arcata on a Wednesday night. A number of climbers that hang out there on Wednesdays will most likely share all that you need to know and probably invite you along on the next trip. There are a lot of good climbers in the Eureka/Arcata area. Have you been out to the limestone areas or Land of the Lost? I would consider many of the routes at the aretes, Cecilville and Marble Caves to be "good climbing".

Hey Rick,
I just reread my original post, and it occurred to me that my comments could be interpreted as a bit coarse. While I stand by the content of my statement, I nonetheless apologize if I came across as rude to you personally. , I guess my comment is intended as a a rebuttal of the "hide-the-crag" attitude in general. Anyway...
Cheers.

I'm a fan of climbing history and I would love to see the route history of the Alps recorded somewhere. I think much of the route info for the Trinities has gone unrecorded due to the past lack of a climbing community in the area. That is changing as more climbers are choosing to live in far northern CA. Generally, many of the approaches in the Alps are a full day hike just to get to the formations. I think that part of the lack of beta is really due to a general lack of interest in that much hiking for routes that are grade III or shorter when there is so much good granite in CA that is much more accessible.

You will have a blast just getting up there and going for it.

But let's see....we were on Sawtooth, Wedding Cake, and Thompson Peak up in the Upper Canyon Creek, and had made plans to go new-routing above Mirror Lake.

Hmmnn... All I can tell you other than my previous post, is one of these was a steep north face, the other a slabby south face with a roof running all the way across near the top, and another had an amazing ridge line broken by sweet dihedrals with a big face to the left full of splitters.

Savor the satisfaction of experiencing that element of uncertainty, that feeling on the approach of scoping aesthetic lines, wondering will that crack take pro, does it flare, are those roof features surmountable, etc. ...you know, those wonderful nagging questions on a climb like, will it go all the way and will the raps be epic, or can we hike off the back side, or what pro to take...

Believe me when I say you will have more fun giving yourself the needed time, hiking in, yes quite a way, picking a high camp, choosing a line, and sending it!!

Please take fotografs, keep a journal, and let us know what you find when you get up there!

hey Jim and anyone else following this thread:

We just sent this

hopefully won't get stabbed walking around arcata now. we will probably keep posting routes as we do them.

i've only scoped climbs but need to go back. Matthias dropped the good locations for good granite

red trinities - only found boulders here at echo lakes

beta photo of sawtooth peak


ycatapom peak has reported climbs


canyon lakes area in spring

pack binocs or a spotting scope.
part of the fun of no books is the chance
to come across some old gear of a like minded climber.
I'm to old and fat to care any more,We left the adventure
for our youth,by not writing books but passing hand written topos
please enjoy and respect your time on the north coast
the mountains and crags are a limited resource.
and if you really need to know go take a look, and leave a note

If anyone is down for getting on something in the area this weekend im staying in Covington mill and itchin for a partner. Please call or text 805-315-3555. Cheers. Christopher

Matthias Holladay wrote: You will have a blast just getting up there and going for it. But let's see....we were on Sawtooth, Wedding Cake, and Thompson Peak up in the Upper Canyon Creek, and had made plans to go new-routing above Mirror Lake. Hmmnn... All I can tell you other than my previous post, is one of these was a steep north face, the other a slabby south face with a roof running all the way across near the top, and another had an amazing ridge line broken by sweet dihedrals with a big face to the left full of splitters. Savor the satisfaction of experiencing that element of uncertainty, that feeling on the approach of scoping aesthetic lines, wondering will that crack take pro, does it flare, are those roof features surmountable, etc. ...you know, those wonderful nagging questions on a climb like, will it go all the way and will the raps be epic, or can we hike off the back side, or what pro to take... Believe me when I say you will have more fun giving yourself the needed time, hiking in, yes quite a way, picking a high camp, choosing a line, and sending it!! Please take fotografs, keep a journal, and let us know what you find when you get up there!

I have backpacked in the trinities my whole life, and have stared in awe at the swaths of granite, wanting so badly to climb it, but not quite trusting myself. I think the hard part for me is shifting my mindset to be open to the adventure and uncertainty of finding a line in the backcountry and learning it. The attitude and ethos you've painted for us isn't beta, but it may be just as valuable. So thank you for the pep talk!

Hermit's Hut in Redding used to have an old copy of a Trinity Alps climbing guide behind the counter. There was quite a bit reported there - maybe they've still got it?