Obscure Sierra Classics (Alpine Rock)?

I tried asking this question on another site a few months ago and didn't get much. So I figured I'd try again here.

Any lesser-known high-quality Sierra alpine climbs in the 5.7-5.10a range?

It took me about 2 years to dispatch with essentially everything in the Peter Croft and SuperTopo guides. So I'm trying to find other objectives. The few that I've stumbled on that look fairly appealing at first glance seem to have something that obviously limits their popularity (e.g. Twilight Pillar on Norman Clyde seems to have a heinous descent).

Any ideas for good lesser-known routes? And what keeps them from being more popular?

Get the Sierra 100 Classics. They can get a little fast and loose with route descriptions, but it's definitely got a lot more breadth. You can also troll old AAJs for the trip reports in the back. That's how I first learned of stuff like the Mithral Dihedral, Startrekkin', etc. Still have to get on those.

Have u done the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse?....Obscure enough....im gonna try this summer...good thread.

Yeah, I have that book. It doesn't have a whole lot to offer as far as beta goes. Whenever I look for details elsewhere, there's either very little information or some trip report that indicates that the route wasn't actually that good. I climb mainly with my wife these days, so I have to be somewhat selective. I don't mind a little "adventure" but it generally leads to her being unhappy and reluctant to do other alpine climbs.

I am definitely considering the Twilight Pillar. At least one guiding company is offering it on their website, so that's somewhat encouraging. I also want to do the Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse (probably too much for my wife though). The North Rib of Dana looks OK and I still have to do Humphreys and Lone Pine Peak. Goode is also on my list and I'll probably take a crack at this Hamilton Dome thing on the West Side.

But I'm looking for any other options, since I still have two years left in Fresno.

The T-bolt to Sill traverse still ranks as one of my favorite Sierra days. I'd climb it again if you need a partner! Or maybe it's time to man up and do the Evolution traverse?

The stuff everyone has suggested so far is all in Croft's book.

Some other things on my to do list not in the bible:

E Ridge of Bear Creek Spire (5.8)
W Arete on Winchell (5.8+)
N Buttress of Merriam (10b/c, realize this is a bit on the high end; on SuperTopo website but I don't remember it being in the book)
NE Buttress of Third Recess (5.10)

Moynier & Fiddler's book has good coverage but you have to weed out the routes with crappier rock quality (e.g. Ruby Wall). The descriptions aren't any more vague than Croft's or Secor's. I'd even hazzard to say it is better for some routes.

aaj.americanalpineclub.org/…

That ridge traverse looks fun!

Let me open up my little black book:

The Diamaond (II 5.6) Two Eagle Peak a little loose but incredibly exposed. P264.
NE Ridge (II 5.6) Bear Claw Spire (Rowell) mostly easy climbing in a wonderful setting. P333.
Five Fun (II 5.8) on Piscator Peak (Rowell/Worral) plates and knobs akin to Charlotte Dome. P362
East Arete (III 5.8) on Simmons Peak (Bartlett/Lees) up the edge of an obvious arete. P418

Page reference are for High Sierra - Peaks, Passes & Trails, Secor 3rd Ed.

check this one out:
mountainproject.com/v/calif…

I climbed this rad vintage crack last week, but it's really obscure, you've probably never heard of it.

Good list from Chris Owen. Lots of those Rowell routes are supposedly pretty good. Again, the AAJs are your friend if you can track them down. I guess the thouroughness of a route description can be an issue, though there are philosophical reasons why some authors prefer brevity vs. lots of detail.

As far as other routes, also consider the Obelisk (in King's Canyon)--kind of Charlotte Dome's ugly sister. Kettle Dome (Beckey routes there) is supposed to be nice. Though it's only class 3, the E. Face of Middle Pal is great. N. Ridge of Lone Pine Peak. Mt. Thor has some easy stuff on it that looks fun. I really enjoyed the NW Arete of Mt. Haeckel (class 4). The Little Lakes Peak/Mt. Morgan traverse (class 3-4) is good with great views. I've always found good routes by trolling thru the old green Roper guide, although there you get the issues with almost no description.

I understand what you're saying about your climbing partner. When you're climbing peaks the line between adventure and a little too much adventure can be pretty narrow. Piss off your climbing partner and you can probably fix it with a beer. Piss off your wife, well...What's the saying, "Happy wife, happy life." Definitely caveat emptor.

+1 for Bear Creek Spire. Also Conness has some nice moderate lines and the setting couldn't be more amazing. Have to wait to the pass opens for that one however.

North Ridge/Arete on Mt. Gayley. III 5.8 really good clean rock. Easy day route from 3rd Lake, or camp right at the base near the Palisade Glacier and continue on to the Swiss Arete on Sill.

jcurl wrote:Silver Lining on The Fin, 10a. Superb. Downsides: runout; protected by a cloak of poison oak.

OK, what's the story on that one? I've seen a photo in the old Kings Canyon-Sequoia guide, which looked awesome, but then you look at the topo and it looks like there a bolt every pitch. I grew up climbing runout slab at places like Suicide and Josh, but even by those standards it looked iffy.

Hiking up Tuttle Creek last summer toward the north side of Langley I got a glimpse of a bunch of rock on the south side Lone Pine Peak that looked awesome from a distance . . . Flipping through Secor's book when I got home I saw that there are several established routes there. Those are definitely off the beaten path . . .

Thanks for the reply jcurl. I lead every pitch on Quicksilver in a pair of EBs when I was 17, so I should have just enough mojo left.

Cory wrote:Hiking up Tuttle Creek last summer toward the north side of Langley I got a glimpse of a bunch of rock on the south side Lone Pine Peak that looked awesome from a distance . . . Flipping through Secor's book when I got home I saw that there are several established routes there. Those are definitely off the beaten path . . .

Bruce B (AKA Brutus of Wyde; may he RIP) and his wife Em, and others, established some routes in Tuttle Creek. There's a good summary on summitpost under S Face routes.

Nightingale Arete (5.9) - Vogelsang Peak

The Thumb (moderate fifth) - Mt. Hoffman

Just a great list of out-there routes I thought could use a wake up, enjoy.

Mt. Barnard i felt deserved to be in the croft and super topo books over some of the other choices.  and while your up George creek, check out the east ridge of Carl Heller for a sweet "4th" class ridge scramble.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/109335944/mt-barnard-east-peak-aka-peak-13680

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1764023/Rowells-Sierra-FAs