Bastille Crack Speed?

Kinda silly...

Wondering about the speed record for the Bastille Crack in the canyon. A search finds Mic Fairchild's 5:33 time and Josh Wharton's 5:43 time. I know Mic's time mentions "Ground to top of climb". Anyone know about Josh's time?

I figured it should be measured from the road to the big cable, Since this is an easily defined spot and where many roped parties will belay.

I did the "ground to cable" Bastille in 5:02 earlier this evening.

Any other Eldo aficionados have Bastille crack times, or good opinions on how to time it?

First off - That's crazy fast! Way to move.

A lot of Eldo speed climbs begin @ the Footbridge, but I'm not sure about the Bastille.

Jeez Scott! This was after climbing Milkbone and the Shaft at Dino mtn!

Almost a decade ago, while leading my brother up the route, we were passed by Hans Florine. He was kind enough to remove a stuck cam that my brother couldn't get out and used it "as a ticket to pass". Then on the next pitch, he comes running up the rock again and I was able to swing out of the way to not slow him down. I think he mumbled something about getting it under 6 minutes, but never heard the conclusion. The speed and fluidity was certainly impressive. 5 minutes is amazing.

Hey Scott!

I don't think Mic's time is for the Bastille Crack...Mic told me once his time was for The bastille formation and that he used some combination of werk supp into upper BC. Also his time was to the very summit of the formation

I think Hans Broke Mic's record using the BC....then I remember Josh went out and broke Hans's record within a short amount of time(using BC)...ie Hans' record didn't stand for more than a week or so.

Sounds like you may have the new record...I think most people stop their watchs at the "spike" of rock near the top of the Bastille, thats where most folks unrope and where others have stopped their time.

Looks like you're the new record holder, Congrats! Sub 5 would be uber sick.

Cheers,

Josh

I thought Mic's record for the crack was about four and a half minutes...I guess we'll have to wait to hear from the man, himself.

What's up Casey Bernal! Hope you and Lisa are doing well!

I'm less surprised that the BC speed record would be broken than I am that it would take 13 years for someone to do so. It was 5:33 ground to cables and 6:52 ground to the summit (above YourMother). Unless it's the Eiger or the Nose no one takes it too seriously, but it is fun to watch the times drop on our little crags. Crank on Scott.

I just noticed your reply Mic, very amused with myself for giving an extra minute. If you wouldn't have chimed in, this could have gone down as the inter-web truth but alas, you're a man of integrity. I'll give you that full extra minute in my book if you tell me you did it in some old 5.10 approach shoes and I wouldn't doubt it either!

If your record is bested, the next generation will just have to step it up a little further and so on into the ages, perhaps BASE jumping off the summit after a naked, shoe-less, chalk-less, speed-ascent on a snowy night.

Mic's record is to the very summit of the Bastille. He and I chatted about this once. His record for the BC climb is well under five minutes.

Anyone know what the fastest roped ascent might be? Simul climbing or pitching the thing out? Just curious.

I remember the fastest roped ascent being 12 mins and change a few years ago maybe like 12:25? That was simul climbing.
I've done it in the low 14 min range.

josh

And I was all proud of myself when I got it under 14 minutes!? :P
5:02 is just awesome.

J. Thompson wrote:I remember the fastest roped ascent being 12 mins and change a few years ago maybe like 12:25? That was simul climbing. I've done it in the low 14 min range. josh

When we did it we had the exact gear perfectly dialed and layerd in order on our harness. We placed gear. We needed to climb faster!
But we never tried again.

josh

Scott Bennett wrote:Kinda silly... Wondering about the speed record for the Bastille Crack in the canyon. A search finds Mic Fairchild's 5:33 time and Josh Wharton's 5:43 time. I know Mic's time mentions "Ground to top of climb". Anyone know about Josh's time? I figured it should be measured from the road to the big cable, Since this is an easily defined spot and where many roped parties will belay. I did the "ground to cable" Bastille in 5:02 earlier this evening. Any other Eldo aficionados have Bastille crack times, or good opinions on how to time it?

Whoa. 5 minutes????!!! What a sight that would be. : ))

Didn't Mic also solo down climb the route as a records?

I vote for Mic as owning this! :-)

but what do I know other than Mic? I was not there.

but knowing Mic...

Nice work Scott!

When I first moved out here, I would go solo the East Slab 5.6 on Dome Rock in Boulder Canyon. I never used a stopwatch, instead I timed myself using Jay Z's 99 Problems. My best time was base to top just as he rapped "Ain't nothing sweet about how I hold my gun." Haha, good times.

Anyone still playing with this? I'll give base to cable a burn with the GoPro next week. Bridge to cable seems like a good option too. 

GoPro or it didn’t happen bro

Layton B wrote:

Anyone still playing with this? I'll give base to cable a burn with the GoPro next week. Gotta get some official start and end points established. Bridge to cable seems like a good official option. 

But the cable isn’t even the top. Bridge to summit or bridge to bridge.