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Evolve Pontas vs La Sportiva Miura VS

Original Post
coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Anybody worn both?
Opinions please.
High/Low volume, rubber, etc.

Keith Earley · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

I had the Miuras, and they were my favorite shoes yet. I have skinnier feet, and Sportiva's European fit works well for me. The rubber was perfect, sticky yet durable. I tried Evolvs for the first time a couple weeks ago, and they just weren't for me. As you probably know, Evolv is American and will fit people with slightly wider feet, and the sizing is weird. I personally don't fit in Evolvs, as I am between the 10 and 10.5. The vegan rubber Evolv uses is super sticky which is good for bouldering/ super hard sport, but doesn't last very long. It is nice that evolv does have a n option for lace ups, because velcro doesn't work for me.
At the end of the day, if the shoe fits, wear it.

Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

miuras are an amazing technical shoe, the rubber is superior to evolvs as its not only sticky as hell, but also durable, i've worn the pontas velcro and the miura lace up and will pick the miura tenfold over the evolvs.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I don't think that you'll find many people who's feet fit well in both the Miuras and the Pontas. They are very different shoes. The Pontas is a very basic shape without a lot going on. The Miura has a more aggressive shape, but feel a bit softer to me.

The Pontas fits my foot pretty well... and they are good shoes. Not the best, but good. I'd say they are average volume, a bit like the Anasazi but w/ a pointier tow and less baggy heal.

I've climbed in the Miura VS and Lace a few times. Even when I tried on some that were like 2 sizes smaller than my usual shoe, they felt all baggy in the toe. Most of the ones I've tried were pretty new as well, not stretched out. Just too much space up front, and all of the Sportiva performance shoes seem to have a weird shape in the front that keeps me from filling the very end of the shoe. My toes would have to come to a complete point on the end to get into the end of those shoes.

As for the rubber, I think Evolv and Vibram are both behind Five Ten in that department. People's opinions differ, but I've used a lot of Evolvs and there rubber is again, good for the money, but not the best. I've never been a fan of Vibram on any shoe, but the Miuras are better than others I've tried. Don't think they edge as well as the Pontas, but that's probably because they didn't fit my toes.

Personally I think Evolv makes great shoes for the price. Dunno how much the new Shaman costs but the Pontas is by far the cheapest "high performance" shoe out there at around $100. They wear well too... great deal IMHO.

dss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

As stated, it depends on your foot shape and sizing preferences. I recall "test-driving" the Pontas but they just didn't feel comfortable on my Sportiva-shaped feet (I'm also quite happy with the Katana and Mythos), so I really can't speak to their performance. I CAN say that the Miura VSs are AMAZING shoes! I used them almost exclusively to the point where they needed a re-sole. Since I got them back (Rock and Resole rocks!), I'm saving them for "special occasions" and wearing other shoes (usually the Katanas--I save the Mythos for when I want to leave them on for a long time--sooo comfortable) most of the time. Although the Katanas are also great shoes (velcro, but if I needed a new pair, I'd seriously consider the lace-ups), the Miura VSs give me that extra little bit of confidence--if a foot pops off, it's because I screwed-up...

Matt Roberts · · Columbus, OH · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 85

I don't think that these are comparable shoes--the Miura is a much agressive shoe than the Pontas. I would equate the Pontas with Katanas, and the Miura with a Predator or Talon. I've test-driven both; I have 'moderate to small volume' feet, and I found the Pontas to be super comfortable; if I were buying new shoes at the time, (Demo Days) I would've walked out with a pair. The Miuras are just too agressive for where I'm at, which is admittedly, not that impressive. Overall, my feet are shaped more like La Sportivas, but the Pontas felt like a shoe I'd be happy to leave on for hours at a time, same with a Katana, but, at least for me, not the Miura.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Thanks for the input. I think my feet are La Sportiva feet as my Katanas fit great. Miura VS it is.

thanks everyone

Keith Earley · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

Good choice! What is your rationale with getting the velcro based Miura VS as opposed to the lace-up Miuras? I've only rented velcro shoes once, and I wasn't a huge fan of them.

Jeremy K · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0
Keith Earley wrote:Good choice! What is your rationale with getting the velcro based Miura VS as opposed to the lace-up Miuras? I've only rented velcro shoes once, and I wasn't a huge fan of them.
Probably because they were POS rentals? Velcro is pretty handy when you are changing shoes a lot, like at the gym.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I like Velcro, but you can dial the fit better w/ laces. Not a problem if you're going for the TIGHT AS POSSIBLE fit, but if you're on a route that changes angles throughout the day, it's nice to be able to loosen the middle a bit for lower angle stuff while keeping the toes and top part tight.

I like velcro for sport and bouldering and gym. Do the 3 straps on the Miura VS help? I'm wanting to try on the new Sharma Boot (I think the real name is gay and won't type it).

Keith Earley · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25
Jeremy Kasmann wrote: Probably because they were POS rentals? Velcro is pretty handy when you are changing shoes a lot, like at the gym.
Actually, there were brand new evolvs showcased at a climbing comp I went to.(I actually won a coupon for a free pair and am thinking of getting the Maximus approach shoe) I am not much of a gym climber, and I like the adjustability of laced shoes.
coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

The use of the shoes will be bouldering and sport climbing for sure. I have owned a pair of lace-up Miuras before. Over time I have switched to velcro for easy on/off at the gym, bouldering, or sport climbing.

Keith Earley wrote:Good choice! What is your rationale with getting the velcro based Miura VS as opposed to the lace-up Miuras? I've only rented velcro shoes once, and I wasn't a huge fan of them.
Greg DeMatteo · · W. Lebanon, NH · Joined May 2007 · Points: 315

The Pontas fit my feet really well and have been my primary bouldering/sport/gym shoe for years now. The Miuras simply never fit my feet properly. Couldn't get into em.

BSwett · · Bend, Or. · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 15

Miuras. Best shoe ever. They are magic, I swear. Plus they are made to last. I'm on resole #3 and they perform better than ever. KID YOU NOT.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

one thing to note about the miuras is that theyll stretch out slightly with each resole ... at least mine did

so you start with them as a sport shoe ... by the 3rd resole they became my trad shoe ... they actually work pretty good with stealth rubber tooo .... hmmmmmm

Mitch Musci · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 665

I use the Pontas lace-up and it's my new favorite. I believe it is a bit stiffer than the velcro version. I used to wear 5.10 anasazi lace-ups but the new "blancos" have a rediculous heel (I don't know how people fit into it). If you liked the old anasazi lace-ups (the pink ones) try the pontas lace-up...it's even better.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

Muira vs are amazing shoes. They fit my foot perfectly. I have a rather old pair for the gym and a fresh pair for sport/boulders.

Brad H · · Springfield, MO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

I absolutely love my Miura VS's. They are the best agressive shoe I have ever worn. I have been climbing in them for about 8 months and they are holding up really well. I would recommend the Miura's

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

How does the Scarpa Vapor V fit as compared to Evolve and La Sportiva?

What about the stickiness of the rubber?

Thanks for the opinions

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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