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5.10 Moccasym

Original Post
Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

I just bought a pair and love them. What are some of your thoughts on them? They call them a perfect second shoe but I have heard of some people putting up insane climbs with them. I have heel hooke a little with them and they stay on the feet better than the Evolve Pontas did, they seemed to slide more even downsized 1.5 sizes. Just want to know some thought on these from guys who have climbed in them. Especially interested in any thoughts on them from boulderers.
Thanks in advance.

Matt Berrett · · utah · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

I really love these shoes, whats cool about them is they perform in pretty much any situation. boulder, crack, long trad, hard sport. just got back from a trip to joes valley and they worked beautifully

Phillip Morris · · Flavor Country · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 20

They turn your feet red...

dameeser · · denver · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 271

I love them for trad but the shoe comes off sometimes when I do a heal hook.

Toby Butterfield · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 140

Agree that they are pretty excellent when you first buy them. I bought mine as tight as I could while still being able to climb in them, and 6 or 7 months later they're so loose now that my feet roll around in them when I'm on small edges. Not exactly confidence inspiring.
I love them for easy multipitch and crack climbing though!

JonathanC · · CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 5

The rubber seam that runs vertically down the heel is occasionally a problem for me when heel hooking. Mine edged great for a while and then the rubber rounded off. Nevertheless, I like how flexible the shoe is and will resole with a thin rubber.

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

They rock for thin cracks.

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Excellent shoe! Good all arounder. When getting into small edgey stuff try the Anasazi its a bit stiffer and performs similar. Great on slabs and smears as it allows you to feel the rock.(they do turn your feet red)

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

As per Steph Davis it's the only shoe for foot jams:

highinfatuation.com/blog/fo…

Bill C. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 110

I dont mean to hijack this, but has anyone had any experience with the La Sportiva Cobra? Im looking for a shoe thats a little more sensitive and that I can use on longer and more low angle/slab climbing. It seems fairly similar to the Moccasym but I was hoping they might not stretch as much.

Anyone use em? Like em?

AWinters · · NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 5,120

the moccs are an excellent shoe, talk about comfort. not the best when you're edging all day but when it comes to cracks... oh yeah. easy on and off for a session at the boulders too.

I love the cobras too, miss them...

remember the la sportiva mistrals? i'm getting an old pair resoled soon, cant wait

NEH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

The Moccasyms are my favorite bouldering shoe as long as there is not a lot of heal hooking involved. I use them to warm up on sport climbs but then switch to the velcro Anasazi if the climbing gets thin. They truly are an excellent all around shoe. You will always be psyched to have a pair of these in your pack!

Toby Butterfield · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 140
NEH wrote:The Moccasyms are my favorite bouldering shoe as long as there is not a lot of heal hooking involved. I use them to warm up on sport climbs but then switch to the velcro Anasazi if the climbing gets thin. They truly are an excellent all around shoe. You will always be psyched to have a pair of these in your pack!
How do the Anasazi's compare to the moccs in size? I'm a 9.5 moccasym and want to get some Anasazi velcros, but I can only find them online.
R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

The unlined leather in the Mocs stretch quite a bit so I usually get a 9 in the Moc and a 9.5 in the Anasazi. Does any one know how the sizes of the arrowhead stack up? My experience is five ten quality control on their sizes is all over the place! Arrowheads look sweet!

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

Moccs are definitely a jack of all trades. They are really lousy for edging, they aren't that good for larger cracks, and they're a liability for heel hooks. But for thin cracks, smearing, and anytime your footwork doesn't have to be fancy or precise, they are nice.

Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

supermoccs now have a lower volume heel to stick those heel hooks a little better, no improvement on the edging tho...

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,622

been using them for years and love them.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

i have used evolve defys, mocs, muiras, and 5.10 copperheads and i would say hands down my muiras are the best all around shoe around. They edge well i dont have pain in wide cracks, thing cracks or anythign in between. and i sized them down 2 sizes from my approach shoes. yes they are a little spendy and they are not the best for smearing but i love them.

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

"They edge well and they are not the best for smearing but i love them."
This is the trade off stiffer shoes edge well but you can't feel the rock. I guess where you climb would determine what you need. Also your talking $99 V.S. $155 This makes a clear choice for most climbers.

rickpat · · Boulder, Co · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 10
R. Moran wrote:The unlined leather in the Mocs stretch quite a bit so I usually get a 9 in the Moc and a 9.5 in the Anasazi. Does any one know how the sizes of the arrowhead stack up? My experience is five ten quality control on their sizes is all over the place! Arrowheads look sweet!
Got my Arrowheads in street shoe size, and they still fit pretty tight can only wear them for 30 to 45 minutes max.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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