5.10 Moccasym
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I just bought a pair and love them. What are some of your thoughts on them? They call them a perfect second shoe but I have heard of some people putting up insane climbs with them. I have heel hooke a little with them and they stay on the feet better than the Evolve Pontas did, they seemed to slide more even downsized 1.5 sizes. Just want to know some thought on these from guys who have climbed in them. Especially interested in any thoughts on them from boulderers. |
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I really love these shoes, whats cool about them is they perform in pretty much any situation. boulder, crack, long trad, hard sport. just got back from a trip to joes valley and they worked beautifully |
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They turn your feet red... |
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I love them for trad but the shoe comes off sometimes when I do a heal hook. |
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Agree that they are pretty excellent when you first buy them. I bought mine as tight as I could while still being able to climb in them, and 6 or 7 months later they're so loose now that my feet roll around in them when I'm on small edges. Not exactly confidence inspiring. |
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The rubber seam that runs vertically down the heel is occasionally a problem for me when heel hooking. Mine edged great for a while and then the rubber rounded off. Nevertheless, I like how flexible the shoe is and will resole with a thin rubber. |
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They rock for thin cracks. |
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Excellent shoe! Good all arounder. When getting into small edgey stuff try the Anasazi its a bit stiffer and performs similar. Great on slabs and smears as it allows you to feel the rock.(they do turn your feet red) |
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As per Steph Davis it's the only shoe for foot jams: |
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I dont mean to hijack this, but has anyone had any experience with the La Sportiva Cobra? Im looking for a shoe thats a little more sensitive and that I can use on longer and more low angle/slab climbing. It seems fairly similar to the Moccasym but I was hoping they might not stretch as much. |
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the moccs are an excellent shoe, talk about comfort. not the best when you're edging all day but when it comes to cracks... oh yeah. easy on and off for a session at the boulders too. |
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The Moccasyms are my favorite bouldering shoe as long as there is not a lot of heal hooking involved. I use them to warm up on sport climbs but then switch to the velcro Anasazi if the climbing gets thin. They truly are an excellent all around shoe. You will always be psyched to have a pair of these in your pack! |
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NEH wrote:The Moccasyms are my favorite bouldering shoe as long as there is not a lot of heal hooking involved. I use them to warm up on sport climbs but then switch to the velcro Anasazi if the climbing gets thin. They truly are an excellent all around shoe. You will always be psyched to have a pair of these in your pack!How do the Anasazi's compare to the moccs in size? I'm a 9.5 moccasym and want to get some Anasazi velcros, but I can only find them online. |
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The unlined leather in the Mocs stretch quite a bit so I usually get a 9 in the Moc and a 9.5 in the Anasazi. Does any one know how the sizes of the arrowhead stack up? My experience is five ten quality control on their sizes is all over the place! Arrowheads look sweet! |
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Moccs are definitely a jack of all trades. They are really lousy for edging, they aren't that good for larger cracks, and they're a liability for heel hooks. But for thin cracks, smearing, and anytime your footwork doesn't have to be fancy or precise, they are nice. |
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supermoccs now have a lower volume heel to stick those heel hooks a little better, no improvement on the edging tho... |
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i have used evolve defys, mocs, muiras, and 5.10 copperheads and i would say hands down my muiras are the best all around shoe around. They edge well i dont have pain in wide cracks, thing cracks or anythign in between. and i sized them down 2 sizes from my approach shoes. yes they are a little spendy and they are not the best for smearing but i love them. |
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"They edge well and they are not the best for smearing but i love them." |
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R. Moran wrote:The unlined leather in the Mocs stretch quite a bit so I usually get a 9 in the Moc and a 9.5 in the Anasazi. Does any one know how the sizes of the arrowhead stack up? My experience is five ten quality control on their sizes is all over the place! Arrowheads look sweet!Got my Arrowheads in street shoe size, and they still fit pretty tight can only wear them for 30 to 45 minutes max. |