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What's in your shoe quiver?!

Original Post
mt.wilson · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

Ok gear gluttons, how many pairs of shoes do you have? What models? How are they sized and what do you use them for?!

I'll start things off: 1) sportiva cliffs, sized very comfy I often wear them with socks. Use em for cracks, multipitch, all day comfort. 2) red chili lace ups, sized tight I have to take them off after a pitch or three. I don't really like how they fit because I bought em used, looking for a replacement... 3) 5.10 guide tennie approach shoes, sized half size smaller than street shoes. I use em for soloing flatirons, 5.easy, offwidths, long climbs that require walkoffs (they carry great on my haul loop). 4) sportiva ganda guide, slightly roomier than tennies, love them for summer alpine approaches, carrying a heavier pack, anything longer then 4mi.

Keith H. North · · Englewood, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 90

Guide tennie...street shoes/aproach/climbing outside up to about 5.10
Scarpa techno- Trad/guiding... (size = street shoe)
Scarpa Mago- Steep/Gym (3 sizes down from street shoe)
La Sportiva Solution- 2 pairs Steep/Gym (2&3 sizes down from street shoe)

Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 108

Sweet pair of climbing shoes that I use for climbing
Nice brown pair for everyday work use
Running shoes for running and sometimes walking
Oh and I have a pair of sandals that I use all other times

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

About 6 pr. of climbing shoes includind Mad Rock Flash lace,(with cool skulls on them), Mad Rock Frenzy, 5.10 Pitons, some Bufo's, and assorted old stuff that I loan out to noobs. Plus a cache of various new smaller sized cheap stuff that I plan to unload here or at ebay someday ....when I get around to it.

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140

1.) 5.10 V10s for bouldering and tough sport and single pitch trad (although i did take them up the flatirons, that was painful) 2.) La sportiva miura VSs sized a half size big for slightly longer trad 3.) Evolv Defy as gym training shoes 4.) Another pair of 5.10 V10s for competitions (don't like to mix up outside and inside shoes) 5.) A pair of regular new balance shoes for aiding!

Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150

5.10 Huecos (remember those?) for all day, Sportiva Miura lace for longer routes, Miura velcro and Katana velcro for shorter/indoor stuff, and Sportiva Barracudas (my least favorite, but got cheap at a gear swap) for throwing in with checked baggage on trips where climbing isn't the main focus.

Rich Farnham · · Nederland, CO · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 297

TC Pros (sized tight enough for face climbing, but loose enough that I can still flatten out my toes for ring-lock to thin-hand size cracks) for pretty much all trad and multi-pitch, and sport if it is technical edging

Evolv Bandit (Muira knock-off, LS doesn't make the Muira big enough for me) for single pitch cragging that I don't use the TCs. These are being used less and less.

5.10 Piton (similar fit to TCs, but too sloppy a shoe to face climb) for Indian Creek, mainly easier lines.

Mythos (snug, but comfy enough to leave on) used to be my all-day shoe, but seem to be only using them in the gym and on Flatirons these days.

Moccasyms (comfy after break in) for Flatirons and easy bouldering

I have an assortment of other tighter, down-turned shoes that I've been moving away from as I've started to have pain in the joints of my big toes from too many years of tight, pointy shoes (Cobra, Katana, Viper).

Will Spaller · · Ogden, UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 65

Scarpa Techno- moderate to hard trad shoe. Really good for cracks and slabs. All day shoe.

La Sportiva Murias- anything from hard trad and hard sport, pretty much my wildcard shoes I can use for anything. Tight but not painful fitting. Streched a lot from repeated resoles.

5.10 Galileos- mostly sport and bouldering. Sized tight as hell!

Evolv Talons- Ultra hard sport and bouldering. Favorite shoe for sport. Size very tight and they broke in very painlessly!

La Sportiva Baracuda- Easy trad shoe. Sized large enough to wear Smartwool socks with them, so essentially my alpine shoes.

5.10 Spires- Another easy trad/easy soloing shoe. Sized comftorably.

Sad thing is I want more!

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I'm usually pretty sensible with my gear but I have to admit, I LOVE SHOES!

-1.5 pair of Evolv Pontas. The other .5 is in a lake in Texas.
-1 Evolv Royal
-2 Anasazi Verde
-1 Anasazi VC
-2 Acopa Merlin sized comfy
-1 Acopa Merlin sized TIGHT
-1 Acopa B3
-1 Acopa Aztec
-1 Scarpa Techno
-1 Madrock Mugen Tech

For steep stuff I wear the Pontas or B3. The Anasazis are good for everything but bouldering... the VC's are a half size bigger than the Verdes. The Comfy Merlin's are great for anything with smeary feet but not great for pockets and dime edges. That's what the tighter ones are for. The Aztecs are good all around all day shoes, and the Scarpas are for hand cracks. The Royals and Mugens are for the gym.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

Katana Lace- for single pitch sized small
Mythos- worn twice, I just dont like them
TC pros- great but they wear out really fast. The edge is gone and the rand is splitting after only a month of use.
optimus primes- having a hard time getting used to the symmetrical toe box

Crossing · · Breinigsville, PA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,621

5.10 Camp 4's - aid and approaches
EB's - (yeah i still rock these) endurance training shoes
5.10 Moccasyms - thin crack/easy long trad
5.10 Galileos - comfy fit for trad routes that require lots of edging.
5.10 Galileos - tighter fit for easy sport routes and gym routes.
5.10 Galileos - very tight fit for hard sport redpoints and bouldering.

I'm shoe whore and would like to get a pair of downturned shoes whenever I have money, possibly a pair of Muira VS.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

La Sportiva Cliff (probably not exactly that model - but a similar beginer shoe who's name i don't know) - My first shoe, sized like a sneaker - room for socks and plenty comfortable - I use it for warming up and for 5.easy

La Sportiva Katana - Love the toebox, not so much the heal. Decent all around shoe, sized tight. My second shoe, used for a few years. Getting it's second resole right now.

5.10 Galileo's - 2 pairs - My Go-To shoes. Both the same size, but one pair is definitely tighter and I use them for sport, the other pair is a hair more comfy and is my all-day trad shoe. Great edging shoe, not really fan of it in cracks (katana's feel better there).

Scarpa approachies- wandered across them at Sierra Traiding post slightly used (returned?) for $35. Approaches, scrambling and walk-offs.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

A pic from a few years back (I have more now.)

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Kai, looks like you win the 'most selfish' prize! Great collection.

Roots · · Wherever I am · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

Mythos

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

5.10 Spires (For all day or the easy stuff)
5.10 Anasazi Verdes (Go to shoe for tough sport. Sized down 1)
5.10 Galileo (Gym, Sport, Bouldering. Sized down 2, really tight)

portercrock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 50

I have three pairs but i have been wearing my La Sportiva testerossas the must. the rubber on these things is awesome. they are really great on routes. i'm probably getting some solutions soon for bouldering. for sportivas i go about a size down. i tried some 5.10's and wore the almost the same size.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Kai Larson wrote:A pic from a few years back (I have more now.)
Thanks, I feel better.
Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

I have went through a ton of shoes trying to find the pair that fit my feet. I have a really long martin toe so its been a struggle.
Until I got the Shamans

2 pair Shamans. Gym, Bouldering, Sport
1 Pair LS Tarantulas Super Comfy Trad

LS Boulder X Approach shoes
Sanuk Sharma Approach Sandals and flip flops

Niccole Schmeer · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 85

Evolve elektra (x2): starter shoes, sometimes trad
Sportiva kantana: sport
Sportiva mythos: trad
Sportiva boulder x: approach
chaco flip flops: approach :D

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

1. Muira laces sized snug but comfortable.
2. Mythos sized comfy.
3. Solutions sized snug, but wish they were a bit snugger
4. Cirque pros for the approach.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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