Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in West Wall
|
Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Arctic Breeze S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Vanishing Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Gene Drake, J. Hicks, 1971. |
| Page Views: | 5,317 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This route climbs the striking jamcrack, left of a pink wall.
There are several ways to do the first pitch, the original being to start to the far right and climb a shallow corner to a small roof, then traverse left under the roof to the main ledge below the second pitch splitter crack. Though this pitch is easy, it is fairly grainy and has some loose rock.
The second method is to climb the blocky corner/face system directly below the second pitch splitter to the big ledge. This variation is the most direct, but is a little runnout and somewhat awkward. Though a popular pitch, it is 5.8 and just a little heads up.
The third method is to climb a blocky area about 15ft to the left below the main crack. Follow a paper thin crack and make a committing move by stepping left into a dirty corner. Just above, the corner becomes a clean, well protected splitter to a wild overhanging traverse (5.7) to the right in a splitter finger crack which leads directly to the main ledge. This is the most aesthetic and fun approach pitch.
You can also climb the first (bolted) pitch of Anesthesia (5.8) and traverse right at the anchors to the overhanging finger crack and onto the big ledge. This method can have a lot of rope drag if not managed well.
Pitch 2 climbs the identifying jamcrack to a huge belay ledge. Steep and exposed. Use long slings on your cams to prevent them from walking back into the hollow void. This is a great pitch!
Pitch 3 climbs a short face section past a bolt and trends right to a shallow bowl. Build a belay where you can on the right side of this bowl.
Pitch 4 climbs the bowl on its left side up a slab which gets steeper as you go up. At the top of the bowl, climb up and right through a blocky section and build a belay here.
Pitch 5 continues up the blocky ledges to the base of a big horrific looking dirty left facing corner/chimney. You can traverse 30ft to the left to finish on “Dead Tree Direct”, or the better way is to traverse to the right around a steep corner/arete and onto the face which holds a hidden surprise. A splitter hand and fist crack called “Better Than it Looks” which climbs a wild and exposed crack on the arete to the top. Belay at the trees above
15 Comments